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Low voltage at the governor control will limit the RPM. This low voltage can be caused by too much resistance at the fuses. There are two, one under the dash and another at the governor control. Both of mine were high in resistance, the one under the dash got hot enough to melt the solder out...

No, the wire going to the timing advance and cold idle dashpot is a MISTAKE. The purpose of this wire is to kill the engine if the transfer case is not in neutral. Wired incorrectly, it will cause all sorts of problems including fast idle and injection that is too advanced when warm!!! Also...

Could also be coolant pump, dirt in radiator or head gasket leak.

I would say you have a problem in the connection of the fat #2 AWG wire to the engine. Start at the front battery negative terminal, locate the #2 AWG wire on that battery terminal, trace it to the firewall. It terminates at the negative bus, on the left (driver's side) end of that bus, there...

I did just that but instead of running off the front battery, the relay switches the back. I had to use another line at 12 volts for the negative to get 12 volts at the accessory outlet. Yes, it works fine. Only thing is the negative part is 12 volts with respect to ground, the outlet I used...

Yes, under the dash is the second fuse. And on mine, wire E1 was connected to the fast idle solenoid + cold advance solenoid so it was always running. This should have replaced the pink wire on the injection pump, a fat 10 AWG thing. I just disconnected it, that is just a neutral transfer...

Perfect, although I am a bit late to the discussion. One BIG problem I discovered is the power supply to the governor is weak. First of all, there are two inline fuses, the glass tube type. These are weak, both of mine had resistance, the under dash one was over 1 ohm and had partially melted...

Today I tackled the M1031 SECM governor issue. It never worked quite right from when it was recovered at Ft. McCoy. Instead of brute force troubleshooting, I went with the basics. It is a 12 volt powered device so it needs 12 volts, only thing was it was only getting barely 10 volts and...

Reliability is compromised by the 1980s era battery equalizer, this provides regulated 14.8 volts for the main engine/vehicle electrical system through one of the 24 volt alternators. Often, it fails causing front battery over-voltage and burned out bulbs. Yes, they can be serviced as parts...

Fixed the idle speed issue on the 1031 SECM. The governor linkage point was acting as the idle speed stop, crashing out on the injector pump housing and causing a 900+ RPM idle. I covered the intake manifold with tape, then using a Dremel with abrasive wheel, pared down the offending corner of...

Many modern digital volt meters have a frequency measurement function. This can be used on the tach output connection on the 27SI alternators if you know the basics. I found a Delco-Remy manual online detailing this, since we all have 27Si alternators and they all have the same pulley ratio...

Mark had an alternator that failed dead, swapping regulators brought it back to life. Such is the nature of transistors, they either fail closed (over voltage in this case) or fail open (dead alternator).

Three colors to the milstd voltmeter. From left to right, they are red, yellow, green and then red. The left side red means the battery is below 11 volts. Yellow range is normal for engine off, it can go into the red during cranking but should not go into the red during pre-glow. The...

I noticed that when doing the relay mod. So I covered everything in heat shrink. But still, disconnecting both batteries from the system is good insurance. The electrical system in my 1031 SECM has plenty of add-ons, most of which run off the back battery to remove loading off the front...

I was in the same situation. Fortunately the batteries were charged and it started right up. The diesel was a bit funky as well as the tank being dirty. I had repaired the tank when I bought it, welding rust holes and then sealing it with a polyurethane product. This made flashlight...

The vacuum regulator attached to the injection pump can be wonky. They get dirty and refuse to work. I'm batting 500 at repairing them, the only success was washing it in denatured alcohol. Remember, to regulate vacuum, it must admit air into the system. That air comes from the dirty under...

Yes, transducer is the problem. The meter is just an arbitrary movement with a scale on it. The transducer takes in alternating current and converts the frequency into a current analog, for the 002/003 series, that is a 0 to 200 microampere current. At 0 microamps, the meter reads 55 Hz, at...

I use 240 volt, 4500 watt water heater elements to load test. I have them mounted to a plastic panel, then the elements go into a bucket of water. Use a metal bucket and make sure to ground the bucket. Plus never touch the elements with breaker closed. Nothing cheaper.

Have you a vacuum gauge, vacuum line tees and extra vacuum hose? Use it to measure vacuum at the pump, then at the vacuum regulator. If that checks out in accordance with the TM, then it could be transmission vacuum modulator.

There can be phase angle difference only if the load is inductive. Still, the breakers can handle this. And the difference is halved when the second generator is brought online. Big difference between commercial grid and two 5-20 kW generators.