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In addition, there is a bow kit specific for dropsides; it has latches on the metal corner pieces that hook onto bolts sticking out from the horizontal roof supports to facilitate quicker breakdown. The assumption is that, with a dropside, you will need to remove/replace the cargo cover much...
To close this off:
- ground was ok (I measured w/multimeter and also extended the ground to a point on the firewall - no change)
- replaced turn signal switch; signal light came on but did not flash
- replaced flasher box (it was a sealed "new style" box, marked 2001)
Everything works as it...
You pulled the cotter pin that locks it? Not meant to be a ridiculous question. Sometimes the cotter pin is broken off, but the remains are still in the hole, sticking out enough to lock the nut.
From then on, the usual. Soak in creeping oil of your choice. Some swear by ATF, others by...
No. I never remember the significance (I think it has to do with the casting profile of the block, similar to the TD designation) but it could have either turbo bolted to it from new/rebuild.
There is something incredibly calming about looking at a brand new/rebuilt motor sitting in the cradle and letting one's eyes wander over each of the shiny, clean components.
I am not sure I understand the issue. I do understand the question. All the pack needs is a pipe plug instead of the hydraulic switch. If the plug is not already there (caution: do not mix up a spray painted plastic plug with an actual pipe plug!) you can add one in under three minutes before...
A CCKW is basically the "WW II Deuce"" - but I suspect that the OP means that he uses the ramps for the CCKW cargo bed. I doubt that he tries to drive a CCKW (or anything really heavy, for that matter) up those ramps.
Can somebody who has done it post some tips for replacing both lines? I was told that you can do it with the IP in place. Do you need a soldier B? Can you get to the 90 degree fitting on the block to tighten the hose connection there?
Pics would of course be awesome! None of the other threads...
Correct, it is the corner reinforcement inside the inner windshield frame. You will see how the holes in these corner brackets line up with the bolts that hold the top frame element to the side elements. When I restored mine, these pieces were rusted and I removed one or both (can't remember) on...
If I recall, the major problem is that, even if one were to leave the keyway cork and/or outer seal off, the gear oil from the pumpkin would not reach the bearings at a quantity and at a level that would guarantee sufficient lubrication. Then there were opinions around the design of greased vs...
Yes - am aware of the other current signal problem thread, but do not wish to hijack the OP's thread. I mentioned this weird behaviour before in somebody else's thread but with no takers for an answer; if you feel deja-vu and think you already read it, you probably did.
Here it goes:
- Grote...
I hear you and had the same issue. The bars can be bent a little so that the end does slide into the windshield frame hole but, once in, the "spring" like pressure of the bar will hold it in the hole. Having the bars in makes the top look better and keeps sufficient headroom inside.
You are...
Indeed. When the flasher is not working and I turn the stalk to "left" and remove the green cap from the unit on the steering column, I can see the lamp glimming. It does not glim in any other stalk position. After a while of glimming, the flasher will spontaneously come on and (usually) work...
An interesting thread where it comes down to what your personal values in life are and how they measure up to your financial needs and wants. It is a little bit like "don't ever say you can't be bought, just because nobody has made a convincing offer, yet!"
I bought a solid truck for (then)...
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