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16 inch M37 tires are a LOT easier to mount than 20" M35s. By far, I can lift the rim with a single arm and the tire is easily pushed with one hand while the other hand is aligning the valve stem with the hole in the rim. BUT the boot flap on the M37s is harder, especially when it has been...

I would recommend a circuit breaker for the positive lead. You should be able to find a 150 amp circuit breaker at your local auto parts store. At 24 volts, it is good for at least 4 Hp electric motor. Yes, there is a 24 volt connection on the fuse block. I wouldn't use that since it...

It appears there is a bad diode in the right alternator. Yes, it can charge with certain diode failures.

The indicator bulb is required to energize the regulator. Without continuity through the bulb, the regulator in the alternator cannot energize the field. Meaning no output. Alternators regulate the output voltage with the field current, this varies the magnetic field. A stronger magnet...

The first clue was the meter needle would move to correct position when I banged the dash with my fist. But this solution was getting more painful so the root cause had to be found. I tested the voltage going to the meter, it was fine. So I determined it was a meter issue. I got a...

The rear battery and right alternator are sometimes termed the upper.

In the 6.2 diesel running at 15:1 air/fuel, you can net ~220 Hp. But it will blow black smoke and have a ton of NOx. It will hot spot the pistons and this can cause thermal stress cracking. So the air/fuel limit is set around 22:1

The rear lights on 1010 and 1031 SECMs have a clear panel under the housing to illuminate a license plate. I removed the reflector under the left signal/brake light, using the two holes to mount a backing plate.

Either the valve or the regulator. Testing the regulator is easy.

If you use the break-off method, be sure to have that piston at top dead center. You can use compressed air to blow the fragment out from the glow plug hole. As always, wear personal protective equipment. Stuff will be flying out toward you. Cover your eyes. Please.

Injection pump adjustment. When you mash on the go pedal with your right foot, you are compressing a coil spring which increases the force the spring can exert on the other side of the control system, the centrifugal force (centripetal acceleration X mass) opposes the spring force. The...

Not true. Every diesel engine is governed. See step 20 on the PDF below if you doubt: http://www.thedieselfiles.com/Ford/Stanadyne%20DB2%20Operation%20and%20Instruction%20Manual%2099009.pdf

Solid black. I doubt any were painted, unlike the 150 mil DFT CARC coating nearly every military standard engine got :deadhorse: If you have ever worked on a M35A2 engine, you know what I am talking about. Wrenches won't fit because the CARC is too thick.

1.5 x 2 box c-channel is standard but no one seems to sell it in small quantities so using the 101 stakes as raw material looks like the best solution. I'm waiting for the pictures, probably will see them at mkcoen's shop tomorrow.

Pictures would be excellent. If the difference is just bolting tabs, that can be easily welded onto the 101 stakes. We were looking for the raw material. Now if the C-channel can be found, we will go with that. Oh, I left the seat braces out on the pallets in the outdoor painting area. I...

The aluminum wheels are a bit garish. Almost like a Josephine wearing bright red lipstick while in woodland BDUs. Sorry, a pet peeve of mine from my service days. If you are going to CLASH, make it the album Combat Rock.

Any automotive vacuum gauge is fine, measuring from 0 to 20" Hg is adequate. 8" is the crucial point, most are very close in this part of the range. Most will also measure positive pressure, this is fine.

My 1031 in basic stock form. Air conditioning is still in limbo as I have no time to do the electric install and drill two 1-3/8" holes. Then all that remains is cut/crimp the hoses and charge.

Could be. The best test is a vacuum gauge on the top hose. The vacuum should drop uniformly as the throttle is pressed. Nearly impossible to clean/repair, replacements are $65+

Well, since you have it at the mechanic, I suppose DIY isn't your option. Too bad because they are not all that complex. Nor are they easy to overhaul yourself. As long as you don't mess with the torque screw which limits maximum fuel injected per stroke, there is no need for calibration...