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Papakb hit it on the head. If it works, don't fool with it. My intent in posting a way to "make it work" was purely to get someone home, in a jam. Just like we were in deep crap with a NATO inspection. Its not a permanent fix. Just to limp home and then fix it right. The valve is there for a...
All Roosa IP's are built like this. Or very close. Gen sets the same. And yes, there is a way around it. Provided you have replaced the no tamper screws, you remove the IP top. Using some wire and cussing a lot, you wire the push valve into the on position. Then you put the top back on. Start...
Try doing the same test as last time on the S9. Can you find and copy what we did? Not the whole thread, just the S9 test. If I have to go back looking, I may die of old age first.
Gordy,
Its normally the first place I look, as the card is and has been a trouble spot for the set. Could be the card, or the relays in it.
The last time we worked together, didn't we trouble shoot the S9?
Try taking the coupling apart. I think it is supposed to work just like it is, unless it somehow broke off. After all, if its broke, you cant maker it broker.
Ignition Switch
The ignition switch located to the left of the instrument cluster, is a two-position ON-OFF lever-type. This switch
must be in the ON position to operate any of the electrical instruments or switches.
Have you bench tested the K1? If so, what happened?
If it works, Make sure S5 is wired like this. Then remove wire 140D. Measure from that wire to wire #240A, at the K1. Also remove that wire, so you are only measuring the wire, not the K1. What you get?
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