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Well, it looks like slobber from the exhaust manifold gasket. This won't do too much, just keep note of it and if the leak lets significant exhaust leak, then replace. You might try putting torque to the bolts but be careful, looks rusty.

I do the "taste test" on brake fluid identification. Yeah, glycol (DOT3, 4) are bitter, DOT 5 is bland. Spit and rinse after the test, glycol are TOXIC, silicone are not so much. On the brake failure, a pressure bleeder will do wonders. No PB? The cap of the master cylinder has a 1/8 NPT...

Looks like someone will be busy. Might justify a new toy or two, like a welder?

Sure sounds like the situation Chuck (stumps) illustrated. When all 12 (yes, a dozen) of the wheel cylinder cups retract a fraction of an inch, the displacement of the master cylinder isn't sufficient to force all 12 shoes to contact the drums. I would recommend getting rid of the breather on...

The air compressor is direct drive, for every rotation of the pulley, there are 1-2 pulses where the compressor loads the belt, this causes tension to rise on one side and slack forms on the other side. Yes, the pulley is accelerating/decelerating with every rotation. Seems odd but the same...

Never in a RA unit. Readiness demands ALL vehicles MC. Now DOL has sources for parts, usually called the "bone yard" but this is direct support call and they MAY put unit-level parts into the system at requests, especially for older vehicles like the M35. IMHO, most of the A2s are from...

I thought the buds were opposite thread of the nuts? That would be right hand thread on the left side and left handed thread on the right. Of course it has been YEARS since I have had to pull the duals. When servicing, I rather pull duals together.

I thought the unloader just shut the intake valve, preventing any real volume from being compressed.

Guess that means I will have plenty of work now!

Unloader or governor on the air system. It could be a sign of an air leak.

Diesels typically run with far excess air for the fuel injected. This cools the exhaust through dilution. Climb to 8500 feet above MSL and the atmospheric pressure is 2/3rds sea level so there is 1/3 less air. But the fuel rate is determined by the right foot of the nut behind the steering...

Yep, all 1/8 NPT male pipe threads. They are only done this way for cost savings, running hose is much better IMHO because pressures are equalized in both directions. After running, the diffs are hot, when they cool, a vacuum is formed, this can cause seals to fail since dirt will be "sucked...

It is very easy to repair. Disconnect the stop wire and unscrew the big nut on the cover. It should come out, if it hangs up, remove the two screws securing the cover to the pump. This is all engine oil wetted and will not leak. But do not start the engine, this will make a mess plus you...

Yes, it looks bent. Easily swapped, see that brass hex nut? Loosen that, then remove the cover to slip the head off the control rod end. You might try loosening the nut just a bit, should reduce packing friction. The seal there keeps dirt out of the engine oil. That section of the IP is...

Definitely remove the cover and clean the engine stop plunger, it should slide easily. It can only pull the control collar down by pulling the control rod to the rear.

Yes, this is easy to do with the IP installed. A mirror might be handy to visualize. Just remove the cover with a regular screwdriver, then move the control rod. If stuck, CAREFULLY remove the hitch pin connecting the control rod to the arm, then cut the safety wire and remove the two screws...

Pull the cover for the engine stop and move the control rod back and forth. It must move freely. The bearing which causes the problem is wet with fuel on the inside, fuel under pressure. And engine oil on the other side without any seal! That means very tight tolerances, under 0.0001"...

Most have far more than 60k. Odometers and Hobbs frequently fail, they are replaced without rolling the replacements forward. Most also have undergone depot overhaul or at least had the engine/transmission/transfer case replaced.

Worn sealing surface. Let me check the TM to see if there is a wiper that can be replaced. Doesn't look like it. I bet there is a groove or two on the crank which won't let the seal seat properly, leading to a leak at higher RPM. It is a forged crank which could be repaired but that is...

Kicked my butt, literally. But I will eventually recover. Would do it again in a heartbeat. I only had ONE donut but about 4 cups of that Starbuck's Pike coffee :wink:. And thanks again for the dinner! I don't need bribing but will always work for food.