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RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: charging 6utl batteries Good info Randy. I had a Chargetek 500 hooked up at all times on the deuce for years and it kept the batteries in top condition. It's made for a dual battery system and it was permanently installed in the truck and plugged in when parked. I lightning...

Ken, that would be okay for short periods of time, for a longer time, the tube would fill with oil where it droops.

The first one covers the 6TN battery also, replaced in Dec 1987 with 6TL. The truck came from factory with 6TN types. All good info, Thanks.

It's fig 33-17 in TM 9-2320-230-20P....

RE: Re: RE: charging 6utl batteries Guess these batteries don't qualify as "deep discharge" cycle batteries, they like to stay topped off at all times.

No number for the shroud David as you can see in the image above and I can't find any other picture, not yet anyway. I feel that warming the oil (and engine) is a good thing even in the +32 to 0°F range. It will speed up starter rpm and reduce time to oil pressure. I'll fab one up from scratch...

Re: Clamps That must definetely have been the lowest bidder making those. :-) The only reason a battery terminal gets hot is when the connection is bad.

This may be of interest: http://www.batteryuniversity.com/partone-13.htm It looks like the Solargizer is "float charging", compensating for self discharge. The article claims that a minimum charging voltage of 27.6 should be used (for two batteries connected in series).

1/8 NPT.

Well, at least this request is bumped to the top. :-)

I shouldn't, but how is a "modern" relay better than an old military hermetically sealed one made for the full mil spec temp range, g-exposure etc or how is weatherpack connectors superior to the silver plated rubber protected Packard ones? Like I said, I shouldn't, but I'm just the opposite, I...

About 17,000 with the crane and the pipeline bed.

The electrolyte with boil if the charging rate is too high.

:lol: The ice age cometh.

Re: RE: Prepping anodized aluminium for paint Thay's what I have done on other parts for the 8x8, lots of aluminum here, just wasn't sure about the anodized surface.

Isn't it nice to have this kind of info available, thanks David! Note that the nuts and bolts are to be zinc chromate or lead covered, not cad plated, all to reduce corrosion. What's the mil spec on the battery if I may ask, MS35000-3, perhaps the terminal alloy is specified? :D

Thanks Leonard, I do have the zink chromate primer (thanks to Cabell), so I'm good to go. I usually let the primer dry for several days. I have a screen print set-up in the basement, so I may go that route for the lettering.

I have measured the amount of oil discharged along with the blow-by fumes in the multifuel engine and it's about 1/10 of a quart every 1,000 miles or so. This oil could mess up the air filter before too long if the fumes were not filtered. The LDS465-2 dumps the crankcase fumes into the exhaust...

Cast copper is compatible with the copper wire in the cable, but not the normal lead posts on the battery. A difference in temp coefficient can possibly create problems. My local NAPA will crimp my cable lugs to spec, at least they say so, haven't used that service yet.

Does any of you have further info on the shroud used in the arctic kit, mounting, general dimensions, pictures, drain hole(s) etc? Any for sales out there in MV land? Thanks