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That's right Kenny, the panel is off or down for the fording operation, since it's only a short time event. You can't leave the breather tube high for an extended period anyway. It would probably fill up with oil and condense water. I use a filter with sump to be able to leave it hooked up...

Dang! I didn't need that image....

Patrick, you have duals in the rear and truly don't need an extra tire. Drop the spare and get more space for a good install as shown in your drawings. Fabricate a heavy duty, possibly water proof box and mount it as you have planned using the additional space.

This is another view of the stand, which is bolted to the fender.

Hmm, good, if it's still as nice and smooth tomorrow, I'll prepare one more for lunch then. At room temp now it feels real tight and smooth and I can turn it by hand. This is so great!

YES! After cooking one of the tierod ends in motor oil for 4 hours at 275°F, it was loose enough to turn by hand! [thumbzup] Hope it stays this way after cooling down. 4 hours may be a little long, but I turned on the cooker with the thermostat set at 275 and went shopping, forgetting about...

I have civy shocks on mine, I'll check later. The studs were larger in dia and the mounting holes had to be reamed out some.

You guys know where to find a set of MWO sleeves for the "light" duty tow bars? Kenny, this image is of your set, but they are "medium" duty.

Mark, try this; http://www.amerline.com/singlewire-1.htm Google MS27144-1 or any other connector part number for lots of hits (=suppliers).

Using the dim/park lever, switching from dim to park and back is a convenient way to flash the headlights while driving...no need to use the lock lever.

Clinto, when you rotate the tires, take two good ones from the rear for the front. If the front tires are not matched you will develop shimmy in a hurry. I got 12,000 miles on my fronts before putting them on the rear axle(s). Mine always start to "cup" on the outsides and should last another...

See also this thread: http://steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&p=85415

Gerhard, I have not seen the air actuator valve used (Hobbs valve ?), usually the manual "fording handle" on the dash is all, to open and close the air supply to the low pressure regulator. Interesting, is there another drawing? Lee, here is my installation. The support for the air intake...

Congrats Chris! Now you (or Amber) can run on veggie oil and bio. My friend and neighbor, who wrote the insert for the biodiesel article in MVM, has a 300 also. It has an Elsbett conversion for running on a high percentage of veggie oil at all times. It looks and runs very well.

This tendency is aggrevated by the two tandem axles in the rear being coupled together without an interaxle differential. The result is a lot of scrubbing in the front, especially with duals.

The buzzer may seem loud when engine is at idle, but on the road, with a headset/ear plugs on it's just right. Even okay with 4-way flashers going on some long uphill drive. Never forget to turn them off. The green indicator light is hopeless, in bright sunlight you can't see it and at night...

The camo paint was Gillespie, not sure about the white, had some sitting on the shelf, probably latex based. Yes it is cooler to the touch on the inside and helps keep it comfy on a sunny day.

Yes, the amber lights are on in "park", but not when the headlights are on. Glad you got the switch put back together, it can be a toughy, spring loaded parts etc.

One day you'll conclude that a bikini top is the way to go. :-) Now painted white after the hot summer trips.

Jon, this is the easy method, only one diode and a couple of splices. Doesn't effect anything else, just adds the buzzer signal when your turn signals are on..