Search results

The 23070 would be a much better match in my case, the brownish 24087 doesn't seem right, but I have seen any number of collector vehicles with the brownish finish. Aervoe's 24087 is not as brown as is Gillespie's.

Got goosebumps reading your post, David. Yeah man!

Removed the front tires today and checked the steering with the axles on blocks. Worked okay, but still very hard to turn the steering wheel. Must be the power steering cylinder resisting. Lots of places to lube, maybe that will help some. (Haven't started the engine again since the fuel system...

Depends on the load, 14G is okay for lights. For more than 10 amp loads use heavier wire. There are tables for this, but your biggest concern should be the starter motor wiring. Keep in mind that if you use the 3-lever light switch, it houses a built-in 20 amp CB, which may limit your options...

Leonard, you will double the amperage if you cut the voltage in half for the the same wattage. If you run a 12 volt system you should run heavier gauge wiring throughout.

Found this reference on the web. The FS595A would then be the standard for 1969. FS595: The colour standard FS595 was first issued from the United States government, in 1956 and continuously updated by adding letter extensions (FS595a 1968 and FS595b 1989) when full reprints with all additions...

These are two plates still on my desk. Split up for better resolution here.

RE: Paint Okay David, what is lacking in my question?

Sounds about right, just do 20° BTDC for turbo equipped and 25° for N/A engines.

What color would this be? Probably as painted when the XM757 was delivered in 1969. Thanks.

Personally, I think announcing items or services for sale on the regular forum works good, it's nice to see what others have to offer without having to go to a different section. I was looking forward to see how well Joe would do with his bobbed deuce. It makes the forum more interesting...

Checked out the "Classifieds", it's like a whole new forum, sure makes it complicated with new profile etc... think I'll skip it for now.

I can do some moderate moderating, Mike. (posted this to keep the subject on top, sent you a PM). :-)

Supposedly a good "High Temperature" graese will not run. If it does, the friction will increase and the hub will get warm. So grease in the hub will stay in the hub if it's good grease. Of course, I'm the kind of guy who thinks that a small amount of DOT 3 may be beneficial when added to DOT...

Gary, grease in the hub is a waste. Bearing grease is designed to stick to the rollers, the extra grease in the hub really doesn't do anything. Get whatever good quality grease is available near you and put a hand on the wheel hubs after a drive to make sure nothing gets overheated. Gear oil...

Check this out. http://imageevent.com/cranetruck/flamedetector

If I may suggest, use the studs (stud nuts?) for handy steps.

RE: Re: RE: Convoy idea..... You can include me here in Meadows of Dan, just about at any time. Plenty of space here, I would only ask for a day's notice or so. Weather is a big factor and at ele 3,000 ft, it's colder and windier here most of the time. I'm over 300 miles from the coast, though....

When plumbing fuel lines for biodiesel, veggie oil and diesel (and gas too for that matter) remember to use the right teflon tape, the yellow stuff, the white doesn't stand up very well.

Compare to my own find here in Virginia back in 1993. Also ex-Navy International Loadstar 1600, but no front wheel drive.