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check time stamp 2:48, the adapter plate is installed backwards. The welds are doing all the work now instead of clamp load.

I was thinking of doing the huei filter or a bypass filtration, sounds like one of the issues of contimated oil if the oil cooler leaking unfiltered oil. Adept Ape has a good video regarding the secondary filter.

yes, that is basically how my wiring is. The exciter windings are part of the stator windings and terminate on the N side of the power windings. I would have liked to separate the exciter from the power but it is not possible without taking the stator apart. you were right about almost killing...

If I die from this project I will make sure to post the details. thanks for noticing the issue with the grounds I didn’t see the issue with the grounds when I drew up that schematic, the grounds are isolated. the DC and AC buss ground check has no continuity between the two. I was debating...

My project seems to have blown something up, I installed the generator in my camper to run the AC buss. I basically gutted the MEP-531a electronics and moved them into a control panel in my camper. I had to modify quite a bit to get it to work, the ops check was ok the generator was able to...

Hello, first time posting on the generator forum. I have 2 MEP-531a generators, I could not get either of them to work, I found that the VR does not pass the lightbulb test and I can’t get to power on. Both VR are swelled and once is cracked. I found an aftermarket VR called a EA350, I could not...

I did a pattern, about 120 studs per tyre, look up you local laws, laws in my state was no more than 3% of tire surface area could be studded otherwise it was defined as a “metal tyre”. I used the igrip studs 15mm shouldered studs PN: SS-151000

I did mine, works well, have not driven much on them or removed them yet. You should be able to remove them every season, I bet you could stud them at least 5-6 times before you run out of space.

I have had an issue with that speed sensor, on mine it would fail and lock into current gear. Eventually it would read a speed and start shifting normally. All the ohm checks would come back within limits but it would still intermittently fail. I ended up replacing the sensor but I found a pin...

Thanks for the info, I opened up my wheel valves and they have some corrosion, I think they are leaking across the diaphragm. When I take the vent screws out to manual shut the valves I do hear air ecasping. I ordered some rebuild kits from colt, hopefully they fix my issue and I can use my CTIS...

Thank Keith, I found the jumper wire and disconnected it, now the CTIS ECU powers off with the CTIS off switch. It must be an instruction to disconnect in the Arctic kit install but just was not done.

The driveline test used just battery voltage but it looks like the solenoid/wiring overheated but it worked for the test duration. It seems like everything is driven by PWM now, it would be nice to find a PWM generator ground test.

Thank you, I appreciate it. Looks like you wired in a switch. Did you wire in the switch at p111 disconnect?

I am up in Alaska, I been having trouble with my truck CTIS system draining all the tyres after shutdown. I did some troubleshooting and all the wheel valves stay open, after the CTIS ecu does a pressure check. I can go through and manually close them and they stay closed. My CTIS works well...

Did you check what code? I don’t think the solenoid is monitored by the TCU, the only thing that I would think is the output speed sensor would fault when disconnected.

Ron, are you running eco hubs? Do you think the higher torque to the C7 clutch pack is causing them to slip? There is no indication or monitoring of the C7 clutch pressures.

check line #429 grid F4, looks like space 11 for going to contact 87 of the engine PTO Relay

thanks for the info, I installed my cruise control and wired in the service brake discrete to the ECM, I was noticing that the pacbrake would not work while cruise control switch is on but speed is not set. I will have to go in and find those setting to change it.

I find that troubleshooting CTIS is very hard without using a data reader, you can try to use blink codes but the best is to use a data reader. I had to use a prolink with a road ranger TMS cartridge. You can tell the ECU to inflate and deflate to find leaks. this was my error code with 5...

The valve for mode is in the transfer case. looks like it should be pins B and A on the transfer case connector.