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Someone attempted to just buy and install a regulator not meant for that generator. Unplug that thing…you can still start the truck with the regulator.

This is a lesson in futility, get with you’re truck and start going over it…inside, on top and especially underneath.

instead of complaining about these GP employees supposedly stealing parts off trucks, maybe research a senior mangers email address and inquire, actually see if any these accusations bear any fruit. I’m quite positive RB and GP do not condone the activity you purport to be occurring

No, I’m not assuming…if you don’t have the later style serp setup, you can’t install the new style pump and remote reservoir. I recommend a trip to the parts TM

The entire serpentine system has to be upgraded as well as the belt and pulley on the generator…it’s not a cheap conversion. but if you insist? I probably have everything

geared fan drive CV joint bolt…not uncommon to have them loose or even missing

The R4 compressor has an over pressure valve IIRC…

yes, i made one years ago as a diagnostic tool, all you are doing is denying 12v with a simple switch. The second you touch the brake pedal, you deny the 12v thus unlocking the TC, as soon as you hit about 40mph, apply the 12v and you should see a drop in RPM.

When I was at Camp Roberts MATES, they had an M37 weapons carrier for a maintenance truck in the yard…over 20yrs or more since they were out of the inventory. In my 27yrs on bases….you see all kinds of old equipment still on the bases, I know for a fact in many cases, there is no paperwork and...

It’s a buyer’s responsibility to have a used vehicle checked out before purchase, not afterward and when it fails blame the seller. i promise you, I can find something wrong on ANY truck that comes into my shop, regardless of what mechanic previously worked on it. Everything you listed as a...

If that much 134 leaked out that fast? its Going to be pretty obvious to find the failure point I’d assume. you won’t need a UV dye…just take it back to the shop, they need find the leak, fix it…vacuum it back down and replace the 134. if they are using a machine? The machine does everything...

ECV’s and REV’s already route the vent back to the fuel filler neck, this is a non-issue.

Nothing slams shut, nothing slams open…thermostats open gradually as temperature increase and is fully open at rated temp of the tstat…the tstat regulates the coolant from the block to the radiator from the Top down.When fully hot and open “operating temp” the system should be pressurized, thus...

Are you actually checking to see at 55mph that you are in fact in OD by dropping the gear select into 3rd gear? If not….go test it.

AFAIC…yes, my thought process is this, Polaris didn’t reinvent the wheel on lots of this stuff, no need too.

Just replaced all the brake pads…standard RZR 900 series are same, amazon to the rescue. Is it me or are the brakes damn near worthless on these MRZR’s?

I have a NIB factory kit with everything…

Thats only on the M1114, the battery box on all other Hmmwv’s are the same..fiberglass battery box cover. The battery box on an M1114 is not compatible with the fiberglass box cover, the battery box is not flush with the floor, it actually lower and protrudes out the bottom of the floor about 3-4in

Huh?

the compressor should have its ratings on a decal or the mfg website…