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The angle of the pull aided the taller truck. Reduced the contact presure of the lower trucks rear axle.

From my experience with the GM 6.2 vs the Ford (Jap) 7.3, I'd say the 6.2 is the superior motor by far. Easier starts. Better economy. Wider torque range. Better driveability. That 7.3 is a total piece of crap unless it is turbo charged. The 6.2 is only partially a piece of crap until it is...

Dude, could be way worse.. you could be stuck with a 7.3 N/A We had one a s a plumbing rig. At least the 6.2 can rev up a little bit. That N/A 7/2 had the tightest torque band of any engine I have ever driven. Total piece of hampster fodder.

Buy a pack of razor blades. Solo cups and baggies and a sharpie pen. Label everything you remove. Torque wrench. Set of head bolts. Head gaskets. Timing cover gaskets/top end kit. Contact a local machine shop and let them know you need your heads checked out. Don't skip that step. Have them...

I wouldn't spray motor oil around because it attracts dirt and would be a mess to work on. But PAM non stick coating sprayed in the fenderwells before a mud run will aid cleanup afterwards. It is easy to wash off. As for leaving an oil residue of any kind on metal; Wouldn't you think road salt...

Twice the available cranking amps. Most diesels have 2 batteries in parallel. The load of 100 amps for 10 seconds from glow plugs combined with 400 amps to spin the starter will make the reason for 2 batteries quite evident.

I would think you would pull the heads anyways before you install the used motor just to be sure there are no problems. Why not pull them now and that way keep the cylinders lubed and be able to see if any obvious problems exist. I just can't imagine installing an engine that has been sitting...

Also wanted to add, for future engine storage; Not a lot of oil is spraying around inside the engine when you prime the oil pump on an engine stand or even crank the engine over with a starter. It drips out between the bearing journals. Even engines with oil holes in the connecting rods that...

Or sell it to me so I can replace the 400 in my 76 K5 with something that gets better than single digit mileage. I like the torque but sheesh! Always liked those smaller gas v8's. The GM 283, 305, the IH 304, Fords 302. Alltime favorite gas motor being the little Ford 200 cu inch inline six.

Apologies. Well that is a cluster. Glad my M1009 doesn't have all that junk just to spin the fan.

You dont need an isolated ground alt for that conversion then. If you have an isolated ground alt to use, just ground the post to the engine block. If it is non isolated ground alt, it will ground itself through the housing.

Gm made both alternators isolated ground for ease of supply chain replacement. Any isolated ground alt can be made to function as a standard chassis ground by simply grounding the isolated wire post to the block etc. Think of it as a ladder. The first alternator is grounded to the block and...

So your power steering pump is foaming over and the fan is blowing the power steering fluid around? I dont see what the fan clutch has to do with anything. It is supposed to be tight when its cold, will loosen up after about 5 minutes, and then only stiffen up when the engine is hot once up to...

Lube refiner. There are some nos fuel processors on ebay too. Basically a stratified filter element. There are also ways the add bypass filtration. It is a much finer filter, down to a micron, that takes oil from the clean side of your stock filter, filters it further, sends it through a...

Which roscommon conversion are you doing? The batteries parallel single alt 12 volt? If that is the case, don't you already have everything you need? Two 12 volt alternators wired parallel is pointless since their voltage regulator can never be tuned precisely the same; only one of them will do...

I know the Willys F Head motors have a hole in the connecting rods that sprays oil onto the underside of the piston and cylinder walls as do some diesels. I don't believe the small block Chevys have that feature. They rely on splash from the crank case and oil thrown out of the rod journals...

All three of my Blazers have had issues with that circuit board. #1 the dash light dimmer (twisting light switch) rheostats get crunchy on blazers. Twist that a few dozen times and see if your dash lights brighten and dim smoothly or if they flicker in certain spots. The dash light bulb sockets...

Yeah, do this first ^^^ I had this happen a couple of times on various equipment. The battery terminals can be loose or corrosion present between connector and terminal that allows the lights on the dash to work normally until you turn the key to start and the current load causes everything to...

If you have a voltmeter or can get one, that would be helpful. What you have is a key switch that provides power to a small relay behind the dash panel which controls power to the starter solenoid which controls power to the starter windings. Next time you try to start the truck; Locate the...

If you touch your voltmeter lead to the fan housing and the other to ground while the fan is on and working vs when it quits; what value do you read? I am wondering if you have a bad ground or bad power connection somewhere that is causing the problem. I tried to duplicate it on my m1009. Since...