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Fight it, there is probably minimal frame damage, a couple bumper brackets, maybe a bumper and grille guard, and it would be good to go. Lots of these trucks go for upwards of $5,000 now, so find a couple good examples in the same condition as yours, and the insurance will likely pay. It's a...
I got it jacked up and laid on a couple 2x6, then I used our small lawn tractor, and put tension on a towstrap and slid it very carefully back.
Normally I still have the axles under a truck, so all I do is jack up the cab on sawhorses, then roll the frame forward and set the cab back down...
Sat, March 30: I moved the cab back, and scraped/sanded in prep for paint, degreased the whole frame, because the truck stick out of the garage currently, I laid a tarp over the opening.
Sun, March 31:
Started painting, chassis saver requires a good recoat window, 3-8hrs, up to 24...
I knew I was replacing the frame shackle bushings anyways, but the old ones were definitely past their useful life!
The one worn all the way through is the drivers side, the spring was actually contacting the frame.
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Best to pull all the drums and check behind the rubber boots on the wheels cylinders. Another possibility is within the air pack itself, there are a couple different ways for fluid to leak out but be undetectable.
Please figure out the source of the leak before driving on the road, for your...
I'm planning either a 2.5" lift or 4", leaning to 2.5" depends on clutch slave clearance. There's 2" clearance with stock springs-which means not enough upward travel to provide adequate clearance.
My plan for the 292 is long tube headers, 2.25" exhaust, and some sort of single chamber design...
Brackets removed, I removed all the brake lines, they will be replaced, I was debating not, but one of them had a pin hole and it started leaking, not worth saving a few bucks saving them.
Cleaning up real nice, should be able to paint tomorrow no problem.
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I have a lot of time in the winter, it's a pain if I need to paint, but I can do a lot of mechanical work. I have planned a 292 truck for a while, this was a low mile engine from a lightly used farm truck, less then 20,000 original miles.
My brother had a 72 C20, 5:13 rear end and SM465, he was...
Figured I'd post up my build here, it's based on a M1008 truck chassis, but with some major differences.
First, I went with cab and chassis dually axles-they should be 4:10, but I have yet to confirm.
I also did 63" Chevy 1 ton springs- almost all new trucks use this longer spring to help...
Yarz is correct, you want a rearward angle (or forward, if front shackle) so when unloaded (possible on rough roads, or when having to traverse uneven terrain) it will not flip forward, as that will break spring eyes.
Somewhere between 90 and 45 degrees is good, I like to set at around 70...
I used Blazer brand, flush mount LEDs with great success. Does require a larger hole, I have them wired to an on-off-on switch, one of the "on" position is wired to the reverse lights, the other "on" to ignition so the lights can be used as an auxilary. Because of the way the switch works, I can...
Do you have an update? I am getting ready to do this swap in an M1008 base truck, but I've ditched the seized 6.2 in favor of a 292 inline six, and ditched the stock axle in favor of 4:10 geared cab and chassis dually axles. Mostly I want to see if you kept the external passenger slave GM...
Once the cable is properly adjusted at the parking brake, you can adjust handle travel of the "whale tail" in the cab.
I'm pretty sure major adjustments of either system still require you to go under the truck.
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If they are swollen, failure is not far behind.
It could just be carbon build up too, a long high rpm run may clean it up enough to pull the plugs.
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@Sharecropper
I have never liked the 700, yes you are right it can be beefed up, the TV cable can sometimes pose an issue if not correctly set. Otherwise it's not an overall bad trans, I just don't think it has a place in trucks over 1/2 ton rating.
I'm also very biased against...
You're probably thinking 700r4, which IMO is a rather weak transmission, plus you need to find the elusive T.V. cable bracket.
You can convert a 4l80e to a manual valve box, but that requires you to manually shift through each gear.
The best bang for your dollar (my opinion only) is the 4l80e...
I also do this and replace the bolts with a stud and nut, so I still only need one wrench, plus no more stripped aluminum.
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