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Get together with this guy and either try to get a deal on shipping them together (most of the way) or at least travel together. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?114060-GL-5-Ton-at-Sparta-Post-Purchase-Advice-Please!

To you they donot smell bad, but I know some that will physically choke when a diesel drives by. (pigs smell like money to me, but in all honestly I do not own any pigs. Just used that to make a point) Your second statement proves my point, you dont want to move into a neighborhood with all...

The porkchop isnt used initially to remove the wheels from the truck. You just need the correct size socket and a huge breaker bar. Also remember the lugs on the driver side "should" be backwards from normal. (clockwise to loosen) Other than that its pretty straight forward, remove the outer...

So you wont mind if I move in next door and bring along a few pigs that I own. Not everyone sees our hobby as we do I know it sucks but along with property rights goes responsibilities. If there is a code against it, abide by it or do the leg work to get it changed. Propery value goes alot...

The a1 axle doesnt have the brakes to use with the surge set up. In order to upgrade to the a2 you have to do both the surge assembly and the axle.

I would think that for mil-spec reasons and parts interchange they would be identical to the Cummins

Cool toy. I would have never even thought that the hottest spot on the tires is between the lugs. But thinking about it, I bet that its the part of the tire that flexes the most going down road thus building the most heat.

The outer wheel will put more leverage on the bearing than it was designed for.

the two bottom bulbs are the blackout bulbs, they go un-used. There is a wire diagram floating around here,I'll see if I can find it. *Edit* Ok here is what you need; Military harness circut # and Pin 22-460 Pin J = Right turn/stop light 22-461 Pin B = Left turn/stop light 21 Pin E =...

You can also look for a tool called a "porkchop" that will lock the lugnut to the wheel and let you spin the thimble off. Also a geared lugwrench will do the same. If the thimble threads are messed up to the point it needs replacing remember that there are both right and left hand...

Make sure you have good batteries in the truck before running it for any extended period. Running on bad batteries will kill an alternator.

Or someone that needs one for his truck and knows that describing it would be pretty hard since they all look identical. The only thing that can help is if you know of some distinct markings or tears in it that would be easy to see from just looking at it on a truck. ( cops can not just climb...

You'll have to widen between the wheel wells on the trailer to get the shelter on it.

It's been done. There is a guy not to far from me that did it. (I have posted pics). Instead of messing with a PTO he mounted a small gas engine in the spare tire space behind the cab to run a small hydraulic pump. The gas motor is in the little boxbehind the cab

Im having a hard time picturing how that would work? I would imagine that with the front half of the bogey chained up that would make for a horrible ride.

As far as the front and back are concerned, just lift them up with a little outward pull at the tops. There's no complicated "unclipping" or anything like that. Just up and out.

nopicsRemember that a post like this pictures are mandatory.

Start with the trouble shooting chart in the TM

Welcome. Thats usually how it starts.

Yes the "wires" are available. (I just sold a set) Do a search on ebay for "slave cable" You can get the whole cable, end to end. Or you can buy the ends and make your own length. It uses a pair of 2/0 fine strand (welding cable) copper wire. This is what they look like. (this is a 20'...