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i would drain and replace the gear oil with new. And also check the vent.

If you do wind up rebuilding it could you measure the bore of the brake cylinder and the stroke of the cylinder and PM me the info. Also, if there is an NSN or part # on it that also would be greatly appreciated. That looks like the old style air pack if I'm not mistaken.

Roady, i would GREATLY appreciate it if you did let me know.

Josh, Go to this website: WBParts - Aircraft parts, military parts, NSN, National Stock Numbers, avionics, connectors, Aircraft parts and components Enter your part number in the upper right hand corner of the page. I checked and all 3 part numbers come up with the NSN number. You can also enter...

According to the research that i've done on this, the front wheel cylinders are 1 1/2" bore. The wheel cylinders on the rears (both) should be 1 3/8" bore. If you happen to pull the wheels and drums off I would appreciate it if you would measure the bores on the front and rear wheel clyinders to...

FMJ, Would you post a some pictures of the rod and rod cap from the end so you can see the mating surfaces. Also can you post a picture of the rest of the rods and crank in the block? I eould say the rod looks like it developed a crack on the side that is the bolt is still intact.

FMJ....stop thinking so negative and put a positive spin on your situation...... Think of all the Beer you'll get to consume now!!!!!:-D

Do it this way, go around to a few places that are willing and able to do the service on the truck. Get prices. Then put the truck up for sale at the price you want to sell it at. When you get a buyer explain to him it is sold as is for X amount of dollars but you can have it serviced by this...

"Another reason people are using the threaded block heater is because it can be installed with a minimum of Antifreeze loss if you are fast and have everything ready. At $10+ a gallon this will offset the extra cost fast." WOW.....isn't that why God created buckets????

The most important thing you need to remember is "DON'T DROP IT"!!!!!!!

Why would anybody want to see what they're going to back into?????? It takes the surprise out of the moment of impact.........:roll:

Better to hear em then smell em........

Saddam, the part number you listed in your post: P/N 10937856 and it is on Page 227, Figure 226 TM9-2320-361-24P Comes up as the either start kit. Just to let you know.

You're absolutely right Wreckerman....what ever happened to the REAL reality shows where they used REAL actors?????? What is this world coming to?????

just went back and looked at all of your pictures..........the reason......I was looking for the Bud bottle!!!!!! It felt Iike it was a "Where's Waldo" book......:wink:

Are you getting an endorsement from Budweiser?????

Big racks, small racks.........it really doesn't matter.........they're still made up of BOOBS!!!!rofl Sorry......couldn't resist......:roll:

No EUC???? So are you gonna keep one stock and bob the other????

So thats why your employees don't let you drive them anymore!!!! :razz::razz:

Scooter, Accor4ding to TM9-2910-226-34 you should be able to remove the IP housing off of the advance housing. The shaft is only splined into the advance mechanism. hope this helps