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Correction, There is a copper gasket underneath that hex head plug. I cannot find the torque spec on it yet so I'd pull it clean it and reinstall and tighten....or better yet see if you can find a new copper gasket.....

Airmech, I read in a post once from Cranetruck that that nut has to be torqued. Pull it out and make sure the surface is clean and then reinstall and tighten. I'll look and see if I can find the torque spec for it.

GUNNER!!!!!!! Are you off your meds again????? :doh:

Just take the speedy sleeve off and clean off the epoxy you put on. Then put a new sleeve on with lock tite. Don't worry about it being smooth. thats what thesleeve is supposed to do. And I'd install a new seal also.

Sorry Westech............I hate to break the news to you but............its not a game you've been playing for a couple of years now.......its actaully reality........rofl I really do hate telling you this but I just feel its about time you knew.........your life is actually a video game.........

Disconnect your alternator and see if the draw goes away. Most likely leaky diodes.

Put the wheel back on with a couple of lugs. See if you can push in on the top of the wheel and pull out to try and use the wheel as a slide hammer on the bearing. Make sure it isn't hanging on the brake shoes. Also, If you can get a piece of wood like a 4 x 4 that will span from the inside...

you had better hope your girlfriend never reads your post.........aua

"NH DOT: School Bus Driver Certificate & Hazardous Materials Endorsement on my CDL" Wow Madhatter...what kind of kids you got up there that require a Hazmat Endorsement to drive a school bus???? rofl

Got pictures??? If both lines run to the tube before the carb and in between theair cleaner then no they aren't for vacuum advance. A vacuum advance has to hook up below the carb to access the vacuum of the engine. The easiest way I would say to definitely find out is to disconnect the lines and...

Thanks Roady, I've been in contact with Bendix about the master cylinder. They informed me that it is obsolete and they don't make a rebuild kit for it. I find that weird but hey its their marble. I also asked them for information on the M35A3 master cylinder which is still available. The only...

Can you measure the bore of the air pack and take pictures of them? thanks

Nice steering wheel!!!!!!!

If you only have that side it must be pretty tough to drive......At least you have the side with the steering wheel.:roll:

You have to let the foam dissapate out of the oil. Let it sit and once the foam is out of the oil refill he reservoir and start it up. Turn it from lock to lock and then let it run for a bit and do it again. Eventually the air will get out and te oil will not be foamy anymore.

Crack the line at the injector while running at idle. If there is a change in idle then chances are that cylinder isn't the problem. If there is not a change then swap out the injector with a known good one from another cylinder. See if it follows the injector or stays with that cylinder. If it...

A settling tank as you describe will work without heat. However, if the oil and water is in an emulsion the only thing that will break the emulsion is heat. There will still be water in trace amounts in the oil that can be removed with heating and running through a centrifuge. This should...

Just from that comment it sounds like you have a bad connection/ground someplace. I would hook up an amp meter in series with the circuit breaker and monitor the amperage. See if it goes up when the tghermal breaker trips.

So Wait Wreckerman.......let me see if I got this straight....... You can Winch a Wench but you can't Wench a Winch??? And If I did Winch a Wench, Which Way Would said Winch Wind the Wench??? When We Winch a Wench, Would We be Watching through the Windshield, Wondering What We Would Want for...

Did you have air pressure in the system? It sounds like the air pack is not bleeding air off when you release the brake pedal. I would say more an air pack problem than a master cylinder.