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Any news on this sucker? Jeepsinker, have you been able to get a quoted price from the machine shop yet on making these or had a chance to have one made and installed in your truck yet?
Here is a link to some MRAP O-Ring sizes part numbers (there are different size o-rings on different MRAP wheels). http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?136735-Combat-Rim-O-Ring-Sizes&p=1683766&viewfull=1#post1683766
Also regarding the impact gun; some of us cant justify a giant impact...
Check out this thread it has some good info: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?83547-Changing-caster-angle-solved-problems-with-G-177-tires&p=1497451&viewfull=1#post1497451
I replaced my bushings, I never could find the documented way to get them out so I did it in the only fashion I could think of. Those older style bushings were a work of art! They had grease paths machined into them and were just beautiful, I replaced them (nos sure if I needed to or not) but...
Thanks guys. Well we figured it out..... by calling the company. Probably what we should have done in the first place:)
Sounds like there is quite a variety of O-ring sizes for these wheels out there.
MRAP-HUTCHINSON ALUMINUM 20 BOLT: PART# 50116~ 18.5" X 3/16" O-RING
I'm trying to help a guy out and find the correct size O-ring for his 20 bolt Hutchinson Aluminum MRAP rims. Anyone know? If you have info on Oring sizes for other wheels used on the deuce feel free to post up.
I have a drawing of the 24 Bolt Hutchinson Aluminum MRAP wheel and it calls out...
Not sure what those rims are, but it looks like they are mounted backwards (dish side out). You can get some modified HEMTT rims that have more backspacing, or if you want a lot more backspacing you can add the PLS wheels with Mrap adapters like Patracy did on his Bobber, see post 8 here
I've used a couple kits. The first one I bought at a Menards store (Sort of like a Home Depot). That Rivet nut kit had a variety pack of different size rivets along with the tools, and was about $20. It came in so handy and I liked it so much that I decided to get a nicer kit that would last me...
I ended up using Rivet nuts to mount my lightbar on. Here is more info on my setup and installation in case it helps at all: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?108671-PEASHOOTER-s-M109A3-CAMPER-Build-Thread&p=1376669&viewfull=1#post1376669
sure, the bracket that mounts your dual circuit master cylinder to the truck frame rail is a specialty item... it even has an arm on it to attach a pto winch lever too. This bracket is different than the ones on the single circuit trucks. This bracket is the "key" piece to being able to copy a...
Something I always intended to do but haven't is to make a 3d model and drawing of that specialty Master cylinder bracket for these late model airforce trucks. Since you are replacing the master cylinder, it might be worth trying to model it up in CAD. If you can find a way to reproduce that...
At work our machinists about never use taps, we just thread-mill all the threaded holes on the CNC but I never looked into seeing if you can thread-mill tapered threads. Do you know if that's possible?
They are both right for the long style airpack... there is also N4105H
AIR PACK (LONG, OLD STYLE)
NSN: 2530-00-040-2188
Part #:8345003, 12368255, N4105H
Rebuild Kit
NSN: 2530-00-040-2190
Part #:28345007, RN25D
AIR PACK (SHORT, NEW STYLE)
NSN: 2530-01-384-3726
Part #: KN35010, N4105AG...
No problem, I didn't realize it was already in the works. I would have only been able to make a couple for people to test anyway, so we would have still needed to find a shop to make them in ongoing quantities if it works out. Glad your on it Garrett. Thanks
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