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I take 2 jumper wires and twist 2 ends together(like a V) and insert it into pin H/24v source. You install one jumper H-R, that powers the control solenoid which must be powered to seal the system and allow it to hold pressure. If you then take the end of the other jumper and apply power...

Sounds normal to me... The CTIS dump valves dump briefly at the end of EVERY cycle. Tgey arecremote pressure regs. They pass input to the wheels when the input pressure is greater. Anything over 5psi sent to the wheels opens the wheel valves. When the input side of the dumps is lower than...

Anything over a group 27 will provide plenty unless it is VERY cold. Cat specced a pair of group 31s for the equipment using these engines. A 31 typically delivers ~1000 CCA... All the kodiaks out there with 3116/3126 engines use similar battery size. I measured my 3116 start current once...

Mine varies about .05V from 28.56 to 28.61 measured with a fluke 87 at the alt this morning. AC showed ~.4V of ripple... That is up from last year, and it has typically been ~28.2V, so i may have something going on there. The 14v is still right around 14.1 on the dash, but didnt put the...

The oil pressure gauge and gauge sensor is not related to the start circuit in any way… the only thing they have in common is they both sample engine oil pressure… There is a separate oil pressure switch that is plumbed into the oil system on the lower drivers side of the engine block near...

Well I mentioned it earlier, if you set your meter for AC, it will read the ripple as an AC voltage. It is a little easier to quantify it that way, and actually assign a voltage closer to the peak of the excursions that the display cycling, is probably not catching. Thats a decent meter he is...

Well if you hooked the batteries up wrong, either nothing will happen because the polarity box will prevent flow, or things will get really hot. If a good battery was dropping to 3V because of load, something would be getting really hot. Sounds like a bad battery. Are they charged and do they...

Those should be way steadier than that. One of 2 things is probably happening. Either the alternator regulator is not able to stabilize the voltage, possibly due to bad connections, or the load itself is unstable, possibly due to bad connections ect. if you disconnect the exc lead from the...

Yes. They feed air from tge supply inlet port to the output port to perform an action. They stop supplying air from inlet to outlet port and vent/release the outlet port pressure when done performing the action. Commonly known as a 3 way 2 position valve. If leaking, supply/inlet is leaking...

Ok, first off that pic you posted of a shunt is from an A0 schematic... as far as I am aware they did not use one on the A1's... a shunt is used to measure current flow, and on the A0 it was in the ground path. Its output only fed the STE test plug... Battery ground should go direct to starter...

Those are the fan and center diff air control solenoid valves. I identified a replacement, about $29 in a youtube vid under my usermame there, Rronmar...

The design of the LBCD with the capacitors was as you mentioned, to provide a “load” for the alternator in the event it commanded a disconnect of the batteries. Think of it like one of those runaway truck ramps with the loose sand and gravel. It catches the trucks(alternator) energy when the...

Well the caps are built into the LBCD, so removing it removes the caps. i would NOT put the disconnects on the ground side. Again, you do not want to disconnect the alt from the batteries while still leaving it connected to the rest of the electrical system. the issue with ground side...

The cogen project I participated in, we were working with a 24V Leece and our reg was pushing it up to 48V. Way more efficient operation that way…

I would not put any form of disconnect between the alternator and the batteries/load. HardWire it in like you show the starter. it is considered poor form and dangerous to disconnect the load from a running alternator. The electrical section in any automotive service manual usually includes...

Something like this is an option to modify the existing mount. You have to cut a notch for the rear alt tab, and a spacer for the front, and do a little relief grinding on 2 of the ribs. You also need to fab a strut for the top mount tab over to the engine. With the mount out of the truck...

Yea need more info… i don’t understand the other pump either, how is it plumbed, how is it controlled. The fuel system moves a lot of fuel and must run at specific pressures. Modifications done incorrectly can restrict fuel and KILL the MUI injectors…

On an A0 chassis and transmission, the engine and transmission don’t need to communicate. the earlier transmissions only really need a throttle position input and they had a standalone TPS sensor to accomplish this. You could probably recreate this configuration and add a standalone TPS sensor...

On the A0 trucks and early A1 trucks its the 15PSI oil switch That controls alt. on the A1s they altered the circuit slightly so that the same relay(K11) first enables the starter, then disables the starter after oil pressure is sensed and enables the alternator. The neutral circuit also...

Mine is pretty steady/consistent. Another thing to look for is AC component(ripple) on the DC lines.