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The only way a diesel engine just “shuts off” is if the fuel cutoff solenoid is denied power or is faulty…I had a truck once that had a bad connection on top of the pump.
KDS green label is not a “Smart start” box, it’s known as a single component EESS, they were short lived and suck IMO.
they do NOT use a TSU in the water crossover, hence the “Single component“ name.
The only box in production is the KDS or Nartron S3 EESS smart start system with TSU, this is...
Start by performing the correct tests to determine if you even have a blown head gasket.
it’s possible you have blowby in the engine and mistook, that does not mean you have blown HG.
ive seen about 99% of the time the over heating was due to the fan not engaging and the operator not paying...
The 6.2-6.5 is so terrible they decided to use it for 39 years and continue to make it today…
Comparing 40yr old diesel technology to modern day is a lesson in futility.
There is a lot going on right now in the HMMWV world at AMG, The M83-P2 gear was Mfg discontinued at Sheppard, so AMG is scrambling to find either an alternative or new Mfg’er.
Sheppard is now using Weller Truck as sole Distributor for all warranty and repairs, no longer can you go Factory...
First off, trucks have more than 4 miles from the factory, so the idea it had 4 miles after 11yrs is laughable,
anyone in this hobby for more than a few years and the way the Govt resets trucks knows better than to believe military speedometer. I bid on that truck, but found out I was bidding...
its not a matter of if something will break, just when…the most common is differential stuff, especially stub Axles, a lot of this also has to do with the tune, make it dump 700ft lbs and 1k of HP and you got issues.
99.9% of all folks pay a shop for this conversion, that’s why I stated as...
Dmax conversions are $50-75k….anyone who says thats crazy has just never done one, the only way to keep
costs down is to do it your self And source your own parts.
Don’t believe me…make the calls to Mtn Machine, Predator etc…and when they quote you? Add another $15-20k on it, especially if it’s...
1980’s technology in the chassis and drivetrain, your going to find out real quick how much a modern high HP and High torque power train will Eat up driveline components.
if you venture into the 300k SN range, your not gaining much over the 258k SN range except the brakes, geared fan drive and...
my suggestion is to make the truck run with an OEM engine and go from there…a Dmax conversion is not for feint of heart or light wallet….it’s really just depends on what your ultimate goals are for the truck.
as far as Diffs go…best diff solution is 2.73 from an A2 truck.
What SN is that Truck...
Advanced is towards the drivers side, retarded towards pass side..l
retarded timing will be quieter , advanced will be louder especially on cold start..
the starting point is dead center…and frankly, is where all trucks are direct from the factory.
The early serpentine plate blocks the oil filler tube, it’s a PITA to remove as opposed to the later serpentine setup.
remove the timing gear cover stud bolts…makes it easier to remove
New hood “old style”
new radiator “old style”
new front radiator support “old style”
new fan shroud ”A0-A2”
possibly new “old style“ Trans/oil cooler assy
*cannot be done to REV”
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