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Wilson takes a Delco starter and completely remanufactures it. Not a cheap rebuilt unit. The correct Wilson number for the 27MT original direct drive starter is 91-01-4376. Filters Products Corporation out of Tuscon, AZ sells them for $206.10 w/free shipping. There is a core charge of $59...

You might look into a tractor tube with a TR218A (air, liquid valve). It has the removable valve core housing that might be a little longer than a regular TR15 rubber stem. It will also be more sturdy if you have to add an extension.

Is this ABS light supposed to be on all the time to indicate it is working? Ok, This light comes on when you start the truck. Then when you get to moving the light goes out to show that the ABS is working. I had to drive it a few hundred miles after sitting quite a while for it to work right. I...

This reminds me of the city slicker that bought some nice replacement heifers and fed them really good with some premium breeding cubes. Those heifers never did get pregnant after all his efforts! He resorted to buying a bull because those breeding cubes did not work!

But it has to be done right or you will let the magic smoke out!

Wait that looks like something CUCVRUS could fix!!!

This is why you are not supposed to crank and crank for extended amounts of time without letting the starter rest. The fluid gets hot and evaporates and binds up your starter. Then it is real hard to drain what's left and refill with new. That is why a straw is needed on fluid can to insert into...

I believe the part # for the spacers is 15634661. Nearly unobtanium! Probably salvage yard only unless you get lucky. If you find an extra set let me know!

National is what is available here to get back to going. I will check the vents.

I tend to agree. I will leave it oil bath with National Gold 380003A Stemco type inside seal.

Ok, Thanks for the quick reply Wes! That makes sense. I could not figure out why that seal was necessary for the oil bath.

I had an inside oil seal leaking on right rear. Pulled it apart and inside seal had been damaged when military rebuilt. Axle flange had rtv sealant only. No gasket or seals. Parts manual shows outer oil seals just under axle flange. They consist of 2 paper gaskets and an 8 hole metal oil seal...

Dang!!

Now would never be a better time to replace head gaskets since they are old enough to fail and have heads checked while off! Just my 2 cents.

My CUCV's have an alternator above the power steering pump!:):)

Also put a little dielectric grease on the connections after cleaning them.

Rev it up or drive faster usually works!!!:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

If a head gasket was not available, I can see trying to reuse one as some have suggested. It might work and get you going. If the gasket is readily available, I think money would be well spent to buy the new gasket and use it for the sake of not having to redo it again. Good luck with whatever...

In!!! THANKS Hawker!!!

That is probably unburned diesel mixed with carbon because that injector may not be spraying correctly. That could be your miss!