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I have the adaptor installed so it was the male end of the adaptor box into the plastic gear.
I second the recommendation to pull the casing from the back of the speedometer while working at the transfer case. If nothing else you will be able to see once you stuff the male end of the cable...
5/8 and 11/16 flare nut wrenches for the solid fuel line.
15mm socket for the solid fuel line holder halfway up the front of the engine
1/4" drive sockets have done me well for the actual mount bolts. Swivel sockets work well too.
A stool or something to stand on for trying to do the stuff...
I wrapped the male end going into the plastic gear of one of mine with aluminum foil and it has been spot on working every time for the last 10 years now. Just throwing something else into the pot.
The brake light switch just connects the two leads to make the lights come on. If you are not hearing the air pack breathe in relation to the lights coming on then I would guess you either have a short between the 3 lever switch and the brake light switch or a bad brake light switch.
To answer the question. Yes, you can put the transfer case in neutral to flat tow. The TM says no more than 50 mph for 50 miles.
Most everyone answered with the practical real world answer of trailer or pull the drive shaft because we all know someone who did it by the book. That had the not...
It should be the other way around. Reading slower than actual speed. Is the speedometer reduction box on yours?
The plastic gear on the output shaft of the NP208 and the plastic gear that goes into the NP208 are the correct ones for all the other CUCV trucks with 4.56:1 gears. Just the M1009...
The part of the hose running from the splice to the injection pump is probably the original one and the proper length for the stock square fuel filter. Whoever put the spin on filter on the truck probably didn't want to go through the hassle of getting under the intake manifold to put in a new...
You have a very unique project.
Simple stuff first. The alternators on a stock M1009 are each 12 volt isolated ground units. The drivers side supplies the front battery which most of the truck is run from at 12 volts. The passenger side alternator is exactly the same as the other one and...
Forgot to add that through our talks. Computech knew all about my truck. He had pre programmed the controller for everything. A true plug and play install with me only having to zero the throttle position input.
My controller is not the sport comp one. It was their latest and greatest 4 years ago. Before I bought, I called up my final 3 or 4 choices to talk about my 6.5 turbo Suburban project and how their controller would work. Computech was the only one that actually answered the phone. It might...
The cross member is a super easy fix. The rear frame bolt hole becomes the new front hole. Then just drill the new rear hole in the frame with the crossmember as the template.
You also need to think standard and metric. The 6.2 is all metric. The TH400 is standard. The NP208 is metric as is the...
Which side was the sun on? I second the IR thermometer gun idea. I use mine to check every bearing and tire. If one isn’t like the others by a little, no problem. By a bunch and I start to look into it.
I have not seen that part before. I know the tach signal sender without the vacuum pump is very expensive from GM. I had one that leaked oil the first time I fired up the engine. I went with the Dakota Digital alternator signal converter on my M715 which I have a complete CUCV dual alternator...
Check your fuel filter, air filter and such. If you have replaced them. Then it could be several things. The TM tab at the top of this page is a way to download the Technical Manuals for this truck. The one ending in -20 has a great almost 100 page section on troubleshooting and talks you...
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