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The green wire comes from the cold advance/fast idle sensor on the rear of the passenger side cylinder head. It goes to the cold advance solenoid on the IP cover and to the fast idle solenoid on the throttle. I don't see the fast idle solenoid in your picture though.

Double the pressure test suggestion. Maybe it had a bad head gasket 20 years ago and residual oil is what you are dealing with. Don't make a problem until you confirm you have a problem.

Very interesting form. I did something similar to what you are wanting to do with a non running out of state registered vehicle when I first wanted to register it in Texas. I had a friendly police officer verify the VIN for me. (It was before the form you linked to was created.) So, yes you...

I don't know how your 12 volt conversion was done so this is just a guess. The big red wire from the batter to the starter goes on the big stud of the solenoid. There should be a smaller 12 gauge or so wire on the same stud that goes to the diamond shaped 2 post buss bar above the glow plug...

I think you are on the correct path. Someone plugged the rear light buckets in wrong and they probably just need to be corrected is my thought. The flasher box is very delicate and doesn’t like stray electrons so do not use your blinkers to check for current at the light buckets.

Center gauge panel out of the way is how I did mine. I also have a memory of pulling the glove box to do the passenger side.

Interesting. I have only come across the 4 groove V belt pulleys in the past. 4 or 5 groove should work on the CUCV. I figure the bolt on the side of the block currently used as the rear power steering pump bracket mount and in front of the motor mount will figure in your mounting of the...

Where did you get the new proportioning valve on the front cross member? I ask because the last I looked, they were no longer available new. That part though should not affect your dragging brakes though. Is the truck pulling to one side constantly? That would be a clue as to which side is...

That is not the correct alternator for a M35A1. They were 28 volt externally regulated (Bread loaf 25 amp) units if my memory of the TM's is correct. Not trying to pick on you since you are relaying a request. But, more information is needed or wider range pictures.

The new alternator from NAPA. Is it an isolated ground unit? The theory is the drivers side doesn't have to be, but if the passenger side isn't, that could also be a short.

Are you talking about the triangle shaped mount behind one of the front doors that can double as a Yeti cup holder or the little clip at the front or rear that holds the end of the antenna?

Sorry to come back with more questions. However, have you downloaded or at least looked at the manuals available for the truck? At the very top of the page in the main title banner is a link marked TM. There are several for the CUCV trucks. The one ending in -10 is like an owners manual on...

To get the drivers door glass out you have to remove the window crank handle, the screws, the arm rest pad and the vent window frame. Did you do all of that already?

You are the test engineer on this project since we don't know how the 12 volt conversion was done. Sorry.

If nothing else is on, yes 15 minutes should have the batteries topped up. Go ahead and do the first thing the TM says to do. Have both batteries load tested and fully charged. Everything depends on that at the beginning.

Do you have the glow plug resistor bypassed on the firewall? If so, the front battery is doing all the glowing and will take longer to get back up to full voltage.

The military supposedly all got the J code engines with the higher rating. Some of the civilian trucks got the lower rather EGR engine. Open intake J code. EGR in the middle under the air filter lower power.

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The fan clutch will not fully "lock up" no matter what temperature it is. I think the stock CUCV fan will get up to 70% engagement for up to 6 minutes. That is off the top of my head and may not be exact. My point is there will always be some slippage on the fan clutch.

My spare doesn't wobble at all. I have the red handled over center locking lever at the end of the arm and a spring loaded locking pin at the bearing. Is that what you were asking?