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So I can use a Code E HH on a Code B pump? I might be doing an injection pump swap soon and have a Code B pump with no HH, and my current Code E pump with an HH. I think my governor came apart so i have a HH on my Code E pump that works still.
Not sure. I was trying to be optimistic and/or if somebody else had some pictures. I suspect I have a timing advance problem with my deuce and I will eventually like to pull my timing advance case apart like this guy did. I want to see if there are any scrapes or broken pieces inside that...
Or if you had the ID and OD of the shims, that would be helpful too. I looked online for A/C clutch shims and there were some that came up. We would need ones that were 0.1MM thick for my application, but I do not know the ID or OD I should have. I may not pull the nozzles out at all and just...
Relax Sally... I will. I just want to make a good educated decision here. Ill have my injection pump fixed (if that is the problem) and my pop tested injectors in way before you get your bed crane mounted with 4 bolts anyway :wink: :beer:
I pop tested my injectors the other day and found they all popped/squirted at around 2400PSI. They did not chatter or or anything when they popped, more just a squirt out and acted like a pressure relief valve. I'm thinking if i just shim them up to the correct 3050 - 3200 PSI pop off pressure...
Thank you for your pictures Mobileauto2000! The more I think about, this is what makes sense to be the problem with mine.
The two pictures you show looking inside the injection pump... could you definitely see something not right/broken in the injection pump? Did it make a funny noise or not...
Thank you. If you could tell me more about what you were experiencing and what you found I would appreciate it! I think I might have the same problem you did.
Oops, I double posted. If a moderator could delete this post and my previous double post I would appreciate it. I tried and did not see where I could delete it. Thank you.
How would I check to see what metal it is exactly? It appeared to be aluminum because of th color and non magnetic. It has been oily under the injection pump lately. I'll have to wipe it down real good and inspect the area to see if I see any cracks. If I see anything I would almost put my money...
How would I check to see what metal it is exactly? It appeared to be aluminum because of th color and non magnetic. It has been oily under the injection pump lately. I'll have to wipe it down real good and inspect the area to see if I see any cracks. If I see anything I would almost put my money...
I'm wondering what the injection pumps look like when the governor springs let go. After a long trip on the highway (4 hour trip) I heard a ticking sound that sounded a lot more than lose rocker arms. I heard it when I pulled off the highway and stopped at 74M35A2's house which is right close to...
When I pull the timing cover all I need is the single gasket I believe and while I'm in there I might as well put a front crank seal gasket. Is that correct?
Can I put my LDT HH on an LDS pump? If so maybe I'll change my injection pump to an LDS. :-)
Do you have any pictures of this carnage?
I have an LDS Pump at home with no Hydraulic Head. I'm not sure if the LDT head from my Code E Hydraulic head will fit the Code B LDS Pump.
No, nothing was magnetic.
The only thing I have done different than I usually do with the truck with this last oil change was I have been driving it a little bit shorter trips to work. I'm 3.5 miles from work and usually let the truck warm up for 5 minutes or so... sometimes only a couple...
yea... it may not be that bad to do. How hard is it to pull the timing cover? I felt around the inside if the drain hole and I only felt just a couple more chips, but not many at all. What else could I see if I pulled it? could I see in to the timing gears at all?
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