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I'll say that a turbo or propane injection both can greatly reduce soot. A turbo is more complicated to install than propane but it creates another fuel stream. On the plus side you don't have to add that much propane to tidy the exhaust up and unlike DEF you don't damage anything if it runs out.

After the first real outage the wife totally changed her opinion about the old military iron out in the yard. :D

Propane injection? A tiny turbo? Those in my opinion would be better than doing a DPF.

It is possible if the fuel level is above the AUX pump. If the pump is in good shape the spring in the pump should push the plunger against the seat and prevent it from passing fuel. If the AUX fuel supply is below the tank in the generator that can't happen.

The pump itself is very much like a check valve inside. Its a mechanical plunger that is moved by an electromagnet. If your fuel pressure is higher than the plungers spring tension then it will push through the pump. If the plunger gets stuck it can let fuel flow thought it. The pump will self...

interesting. Wonder what the drum was used for. Doesn't sound like the coating was fuel compatible. One of the reasons I look for oil drums is any coatings will likely be fuel compatible.

Have you looked at getting 55 gallon drums for fuel storage? I use the black plastic ones that were used to ship cooking oil. They work great. Metal ones are fine too if in good shape.

I think we have gotten down to the root of what is going on. The Schneider inverter will limit the power draw on the generator input to 80% of the configured breaker size (60A) while charging. It uses the charging current as the variable to limit the power draw on the generator input. As an...

Can you list the model numbers of the equipment? These are constant speed generators. They should start and run continuously at 1800 RPM.

Oh yea.. Those are detroit diesel engines. Sweet!

Does the fuel pump run? Do you have fuel returning to the tank?

At my place the MEP831 is now all I need. The solar/battery system provides the surge loads and the short term high power loads. The 831 just recharges the batteries when the power demand is below its max output. Total game changer.

Are you able to see the wire numbers to make sure they are all in the correct locations? Do you have any bad terminals? Have you checked for continuity between the wire ends and the big connectors?

Did you clean the actual adjustment pots on the VR board? You have to make sure you set them back to where they were when you started.

Start by cleaning all your switches with deoxit. Including the POTs on the VR board. My 003 would start out flaky and smooth out after warming up. It was the POTs on the VR board causing the problem.

What comes to mind first is rodent damage. Do you have any signs of little furry friends?

In my opinion its best to go to a newer gauge that doesn't require the transducer. They are super cheap and plenty accurate for our needs.

If I were to design the ideal warmup sequence it would look like this: From start to coolant temp = ~100 degrees - No load From 100 degrees to full operating temp + 5 minutes - 25% load Adding a little load once all the fluids are circulating and starting to come up to temp helps diesels...

As indicated above you will need a controller that handles the start sequence for the generator. The inverter then will do a simple contact closure to trigger the generator start.

I jumper at the output lugs.