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Chynaaa!

I have a friend who has 2 fully restored units for sale

That piece is glued onto the AF cannister, just glue it back on, I just did one today, RTV and 4 1/8in rivets.

That’s not for the A-pillar, that’s for the rear of a 2 man armored roof on an M1152A1

turbo injection pumps are easier than NA’s, pull the crossover, pull the intakes…I use no special wrench, just a 5/8 open ended aren’t, you don’t need any flare wrenches. You just need to install in reverse order you took the hard lines off the pump so you can tighten them back up…sounds easy...

Checking fuel flow from the fuel filter outlet to the IP is the first and only step you need to do to verify that all is good down stream…just use a jar and a quick crank, after that, all TS is at the pump. getting fuel out of the top of the pump drainback nipple is common place, you will always...

Have you replaced you coolant bottle cap? have you verified the cooling system is pressuring up? “Squeeze the upper radiator hose” have you replaced the temp gauge?

if You have done your basic fuel delivery checks and no fuel to injector, the pump needs replacement, you just have to figure out how much time to waste as opposed to using the same amount of time removing the old pump And installing the new one, the Pumps as you can can clog quite easily from...

MWO= modification work order

There are upper and lower case letters….

The “inspector “ and I use the term quite loosely, have no business being called an inspector, they are picture takers, and picture takers that IMO go out of the way to NOT Take pics of actual serious deficientcies of the trucks.

the covers are only installed on TOW variant, not for the M1151 armament carriers

First determine if the other side is a nut or if it’s a riv nut of sorts, older trucks used a rivnut, but later they used nuts, you have a 50/50 chance of spinning the riv nut, what I perceive as the reason they stopped using rivnuts. the bed ties are nuts on your model.

The engine can be started and run with reservoir lid off, do it all the time on bleeds, just don’t turn it off, that’s where the ATF bath occurs, reinstall the lid prior to turning it off.

hit the pulley around the shaft with heat

It’s a 50/50 thing, same as removing the clutch pulley on generators, 50% of the time they slide right off, the Other 50% requires some sort of intervention

they don’t just “slide off” unfortunately, a puller is required , just not as bad as the rcsk18330 pump that is pressed on, this one uses a keyed shaft with woodruff….hit it with heat.

hope you didn’t mind, but had left over CARC and hit your rockers up before it left….

I prefer the parking brake off and trans in neutral on tie down, than brake applied and vehicle placed in park. if it’s good enough on a C17 or C5, it’s good enough on a flatbed.

The armor holes are still present, I don’t see them covered over…and why? They look correct for the model truck, there are several ways to utilize the holes or even cover them the keep the truck look looking authentic . REV A and REV B were fully armored FRAG 5 trucks.