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you are spot on…and may I add, as many folks have an m998, the A2 and Turbo trucks, especially 400amp equipped trucks have all new ground points and completely different from the single point ground they used in the m998.

those are the wrong strap… that eBay seller is and always has been a jerk, has Sold stuff for years listed incorrectly and loves to blame the buyers. I just can’t keep beating this dead horse…if You don’t know what you need, don’t want to read the TM’s, than buy from a true distributor you can...

The tube for the 400amp install is specific to the applicatio, non-400 trucks get a different turbo dipstick, there are 2 versions, fording and non-fording, make certain you also have the correct dipstick as well based.

the ability to identify a Newer model hmmwv with the term REV A or REV B in absence of a better term is priceless for those getting calls on a daily basis….while some seem to have a problem with this, I could frankly careless, when a customer calls and says “I have an M1165A1” that still leaves...

On a side note, hows the Turret been holding up as far as any leaking?

not a HMMWV

Today, All bolts on the HMMWV are Zinc-Aluminum coated Grade 8.

What is it about the word “test” your not getting…it’s a test, not a way of driving the vehicle , the same way i test every truck that comes through my shop, or a transmission shop checks after a rebuild.

FYI, every automatic trans works the same way…so a google search on TCC will result in hundreds of responses.

That’s all normal behavior, your RPM’s won’t rise, you need to understand that the TCM gets input from TPS, CPS, TISS, TOSS…that’s why you keep your foot on the gas pedal and hit the brake pedal. The TCM knows by the fact you removed your foot off the gas via the TPS. You don’t have an...

The switch can be bad, out of adjustment, but your TCC does not unlock just because you take your foot off the throttle. Also, your TCM will generate a DTC if it’s either stuck locked, or stuck unlocked…pull codes from the TCM. you missed the point of my post, I pointed out the proper method to...

The DWF is frankly useless…at least the CDR and valve are. Most important is preventing water injestion into the engine, which is left intact.

To test your TCC lockup, drive the truck down the road at 50mph, with your left foot, tap the brake pedal while keeping your right foot on the accelerator, upon tapping the brake, the rpm’s should spike u…

the more Uninsulated metal you add to the trucks cab, the higher the cab noise level…

as I stated, the website is confusing, there are 2 different part numbers for the two variants…yet the website is description is misleading and vague.

Also, the JLTV is not a 1 for 1 replacement for the hmmwv…

hmmwv’s are still being mfg’d, The Army even pulled and reallocated JLTV funds to hmmwv production because the JLTV is a disaster. https://www.thedrive.com/the-war-zone/41439/joint-light-tactical-vehicle-funds-redirected-by-army-once-again-to-buy-new-humvees

I only say this because the website for champion I thought was a bit confusing on the application and part number…99.9 don’t know the difference and they don’t make an upper radiator hose to fit if you install the wrong one.

Hummer H1 radiator and HMMWV radiator are different, the H1 inlet is farther to the drivers side than it is on a hmmwv.

As a business owner, for liability reasons and just plain reliability, I only use OEM, NOS and distributor supplied parts, especially on braking components. I only do business with HPG, Mac and Kascar, unfortunately the company’s you listed are more than happy to play with words and unsuspecting...