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Oh the mufflers will hold more liquid than one thinks, before backspilling into the exhaust port... but you have no idea how long its been like that. A lot of the auction stuff I have seen come up lately looks like odds and ends garbage from them cleaning out 'back lots'.

Does the yard its posted in, show running videos of any other equipment? If so, there is your reason why its not shown. Machine price and machine quality have a backwards relationship now... much poorer quality, with much more to acquire it. Its not going to get better. I would put money on...

Good looking units, and I am sure the guy who bought them is more than happy. Nice!

PM'd. Thanks

If you have very small zip ties, bring them along too. I often will use them on all the barb fittings for extra security.

Barb fittings at the beginning and the end of the return line run are metal, no replacement needed. The ones at the injector returns are 1/8" plastic vacuum tees. You may be able to reuse what you have, but it's cheap enough to pluck and chuck.

Take a length measurement (or consult the TMs), but Im almost certain that line you are pointing to, is the same as the line that goes from the separator base, over to the canister fuel filter body...

I use that stuff on every machine! All it takes is some motor oil (normally used from the oil change within arms reach from working on said machine) on the barb ends and they go together relatively easily. Definitely not as loose as the leaky Continental, but much more readily available.

If you had to run the set with the bad CR1, you could make a small alligator clip jumper cable to go from the RH leg to the LH leg and bypass the diode itself. I neglected to tell you that the testing was with the S1 in prime (and I assumed the DC was set to NORMAL, which was a mistake). Glad...

@Ray70 is a busy guy, but I am certain he can get you squared away with some high quality upgrades for the filtration.

Look what the cat dragged in... good to see you around these parts Rusty

The bottoms of the fuel pumps are removeable, and there should be a filter screen in place. If your pumps or separator and filters are clogged, it would have run a short time and died. The three 'cans' on the side of the set are the separator and the (2) fuel filters. If this is an important...

I've had in maybe a dozen air cooled sets over the years, and the only shutdown failures were due to LOPS. Never once the shutter switch.

Surely NOT by accident. Richie bros has no scruples.

If you can't put a load on it, no reason to even start it. The marginal gain of circulating fuel through the filters can be accomplished just by letting the set prime for the equal amount of time. If you have room for a free electric range (craigslist, FB marketplace, side of the road, etc) they...

Well I've used HQ for parts before, and they are never OEM... they are knockoffs for the items I have purchased. They have been of sufficient quality though. It doesn't help you right this second, but you should inquire with https://www.sleeman-hawken.com in the UK. They carry true OEM parts...

Are these OEM pumps or aftermarket?

And that little change could have been the reason why this machine left the pool.... funny, right?

That would be giving me too much credit :ROFLMAO:

I want to give Ray my utmost thanks. I've been dealing with some challenging carpal tunnel issues for a few months now, and I asked him if he would be willing to help me with a couple of 802s that I have had sitting (since I am completely unable to work on machines at the present time). He has...