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The reverse/fluid issue makes sense. If too much of my fluid leaked out, when I tried reverse the first time and felt it surging, that was probably the reverse slipping in an out. And the bubbles I saw on the stick were likely because it was stirring too much air in the system. However, this...
I took the M1008 out for the first time in a few months and noticed a decent puddle under the transmission. Actually, it was under the skid plate under the transfer case, but I think that's just where it was collecting. I put a pint of fluid in and drove it out the garage and things were OK...
I took the cluster out, cleaned the circuits with contact cleaner, and replaced all the bulbs. I decided to replace them all seeing as I had the thing out. Put it all back together, and it works like a champ.
Now I just need to order a new 24v voltmeter and I should be set.
I've checked all the fuses, and they're all good. I checked the lightbulb for the underdash light and the filament is fine, so it must not be getting power from the dimmer controller. I still get my headlights to turn on though. I'll make a point to take the switch out and clean all the...
I checked the under dash light and its not blown. So now I have to figure out if the light bulb is good, and the fuses are good, why isn't anything working?
I pulled the fuse and replaced it just to be sure, but that didn't change anything. There's no under-dash light that comes on either when my dimmer is fully rotated.
I checked the grounds for the 24V meter and the looked good.
I noticed the other day when I turned my lights on that I wasn't getting any instrument lights. I rarely drive this truck at dark so it's not been a big deal, but I would like to know how to go about trouble shooting this. Same goes with my volt meter. It's never worked and I assume I'll have...
I guess my plan will be to town with a 1/2 truck, medium tow bar. Swap the tires back to the 235/85r16 road tires, put the off road tires in my bed for more weight on the towing vehicle. I'll put everything in neutral, unlock the steering, and unlock the hubs. I've got about 250 miles to go...
I've been looking into this a little bit and would like to know what you do once you pull the axle out of the U-joint container. Do you just wire the axle up under the truck, or do you pull it from the back of the transfer case? Do you cover the U-joint caps at all?
If I pulled the differential carrier out, and didn't change any of the parts, do I still need to re-do the backlash? Or if I'm installing the parts I just took out, should it be the same as before?
Well now that I've topped it off the humming has gone away and the steering works fine. Now I can hear the other problems..... Apparently I have what I would describe as between a belt squeal and a clickity-clack noise that is definitely relative to the speed when I'm not on the throttle. I'm...
A few weeks ago now I had to get pulled out of a bit of deep water. Deep enough that water was definetly in the engine compartment, but not deep enough that it got to the intake and flooded me out. As soon as I was back on dry land, my power steering was completely gone. I pulled over, left...
I'm in the process of rebuilding my axle and when I pulled the locking hub off one side, it came out pre-dissembled. The problem is that I can't figure out how to get it back together. Can anyone suggest and tips or tricks? Or is this one junk at this point?
Progress is being made. To get the seals out I found a few washers that matched my tube diameter, which I then was able to put down with a pipe and pound on. Inner seals popped right out. New seals all around, locker installed. Have to work out some issues on one of the locking hubs.
OK, what's the secret to getting the inner axle seals out? I had a 1.5" pipe on hand and I was pushing it down the axle tube until I thought I was hitting the ridge of the seal, then pounding on it. I almost pounded the truck of the stands and that seal didn't pop out. I'm trying to avoid...
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