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The early style spindle nut only had one tab for the lock washer to engage and these were found to be unreliable, so they were replaced with the later style that has 2 tabs per side. Shows the different styles: http://www.hummerpartsguy.com/Geared-Hub-Spindle-Nuts_b_3.html

I've never had to do more than the hand cup method for when its bright out haha

The 60 amp alternator does have a voltage regulator you can replace without replacing the whole alternator, its bolted to the back and has the fins. The thing you have to watch out for is that there are different versions of the 60 amp alternator and they each use a slightly different voltage...

I've put a little over 10k miles on mine since I bought it 2 years ago, driven at least once a week. I did do thorough maintenance when I first got it like replace all the half shafts and all the seals in each geared hub and change all the liquids. Has stuff broken in that time, sure, but...

If you look at his picture it looks like he already has the cast perches.

Do you have the correct lower control arms for the progressive springs? I've heard there is a difference between lower control arms for the earlier and progressive springs.

I have the MT/R's on mine, no complaints but they are all I've ran so cant really comment on anything else.

I followed the instructions exactly and when my seat is adjusted all the way back it hits the cross over, so I think you are more limited by that than anything else.

I attached mine under the top because putting it on the outside would let rain in, just have to undo the sides if I want to unroll it and attach it there.

If you have the rear bumper then the H1 hitch posted above will mount with the necessary brackets. There is also an earlier version of the h1 hitch but the later version is much sturdier. There is a good thread on G503 about this: http://g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=101&t=260678

Crack a fuel injector line and crank it to see if you are getting fuel there.

The Hmmwv weighs 5200 but a trailer big enough to hold it probably weighs another 2k. Thats 7200 on a truck rated to tow 3500.

His 1986 hmmwv is far different than the new up-armored ones. They have turbo motors, bigger brakes, stronger frame and suspension, and a stronger drive line.

Sorry to be the party pooper but I dont think it would be a good idea at all. These trucks are woefully under powered as is and you're looking at adding another say 7-8k pounds to it, not to mention the brakes. The military only rated these to tow 3.5k pounds.

I live about 10 minutes from there actually. You don't think it would be cheaper to buy that stuff separately then try to flip a whole truck?

I honestly didn't think they were that bad, or at least expected worse from what everyone was saying. I compressed them with a 3" ratchet strap and slowly worked them out with a pry bar so I didn't ruin the tire. A light coating of tire lube helped it slide easier. Just did the reverse to get...

I doubt it would help much since you don't have the ability to unlock the hubs. These trucks are AWD, not 4WD so removing the front shaft will cause it to not move unless you lock the transfer case. I think its also been mentioned that it was never meant to be run with the rear diff only and...

Only if he gets an actual 12k shaft, the others have the smaller u joint for the rear diff yoke.

From looking back at the TM I think this should be right: 5937387 AND 12342643-1(early 242) 12447125(late 242) 2520013575044 rear shaft for early 242 with 3 speed 2520014590050 rear shaft for late 242 with 3 speed 2520014132724 rear shaft for late 242 with 4 speed 2520014240425 rear shaft for...

I never got it strait because there are so many different applications. They have the early/late style 242 and it is either paired with the three speed or four speed with the 4 speed being a little longer so that affects the length. I ordered a 12447113 which fits the later 242 and has a 1330...