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One more thing, if your shelter doesn't have any of the mounting hardware as I suspect is the case, it is possible if you found a shelter going to the scraper, that you could remove the bottom cleats by unbolting. The side mounting plates with the threaded hole, will be a whole other ball game...

Note: There are a bunch of different type shelters and mobilizers, and they are not interchangeable. Your shelter must be made to work with the M720 or it is not going to work. When I went to get a mobilizer at a DRMO auction I had to go down and measure the position of the two mount points to...

There should be two cleats on the M720 which is an intergral part of the lower cross bar assembly. that corresponds to matching cleats that are bolted to the bottom edge of the shelter. This is true for both sections of the M720 and both ends of the shelter. Obviously they are spaced on both...

It doesn't look like any of the M211 set have made power bleeders. My guess is to make a 1/2 inch bolt out of a steel tube to emulate the existing settup and then cut a hole in the side of the tube as well as connect a tube to the head of the bolt that goes to the power bleeder tank. Also...

Thanks a bunch!!! Bruce

Any one know the diameter and threads of the vent fitting that screws into the top of the Master Cylinder Cap. My truck is in the next town over and I want to make up a power bleed system for the brakes. Thanks, Bruce

Try Alpha Heaven.

Isn't that itterily repursive?????

I'm a member too...:roll: I'm looking for 4 "inner tubes". Beach Party???? Sorry, couldn't resist. Bruce

I wonder how difficult it would be to make a bypass to the thermostat. Maybe an electric valve in the bypass line fed from the circuit that is used for the circulating heater. That way the bypass shuts off automaticly when you pull out of the garage and your heater plug becomes disconnected...

Pointer to pages that cover comercial to military pin out In TM 9-2330-285-14&P at the end there are fold out pages with diagrams. Go to Fig 35-1 and then page down until you see it. about five or six pages down. I just pulled the TM off of LOGSA and submitted it for the technical manual...

Isn't there some song with a phrase "oh lord stuck in Lodi again"? Bruce

Talk about weird luck...I was following a reference from Kenny in regard to the cable size for a M108 winch and stumbled across the following in: TM 9-2320-209-34P fIG 267 Sheave assembly M756A2 Truck Pipeline Construction Haven't looked up the capacity yet, but that is definetely the snatch...

Thanks, but somehow I don't think so. There was a NSN type bar code sticker on it but it was too mangled to read. It came from one of the bases up in Washington, but I don't know which one. What is your guess as to the rating? I suspect the limiting factors are the 6 1/2" diameter shieve size...

Testing resolution

Forth attempt with this camera. Notes: shieve is 6 1/2" valley to valley. designed for 5/8" cable Hook opening is 2" Hook pin is 1" Hope this works, Bruce

3DAngus, That is close, but I think the one I have is even beefier than that. I will try to get some pictures made of it. Thanks a lot for the help! Bruce

Thanks! But that's not the one, I guess I'll have to figure out how to get a picture of it. Bruce

Can someone point me to a picture of the mil 6" snatch block and also tell me the rating of it please. I am trying to identify the snatch block I have which is built like a brick s-house. It has a fancy knobed handle to make it easy to seperate the side so you can insert the cable. Thanks, Bruce

Note, these do not charge your batteries, they only get rid of the sulphate buildup which destroys your batteries. I think they are great for what they do. Bruce