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Perhaps looking in the -20p or -34p TM will turn up the GM part numbers?

You could run a fuel line into a can of diesel, and bypass the tank and the lift pump. The IP can pull fuel that way, and it will narrow down where the problem is a bit.

Perhaps it is warmer than it was a month ago, so the GPs don't need to cycle as long? Also, maybe it lost prime after sitting for that time?

OP states it was converted to 12v, so no need for the DH mod.

Never mind, I bow to the all might Warthog! :D

Ask Interstate about their 'seconds' ... last pair I got were like $45 each...

If the one that came with the truck when you got it is the black plastic one, then it is probably the original one. The military did switch to a different solenoid at a later date. The one you said you ordered should be fine. Do look up the threads on re-supplying the GP solenoid from the 12v...

That is great news! That solenoid should work just fine. Now before you install it, has the GP solenoid been re-powered with 12v direct instead of off the big black resistor bank? You might want to look into that as well if not. It can save your glow plugs from a cascade failure. And yes, as...

Post #4 & 5 here: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?20600-FAQ-Thread-for-CUCV-s&p=211671&viewfull=1#post211671 If your parts house wants to substitute a different solenoid, have them show you with a meter that there is *NO* conductivity between the mounting tabs and any of the terminals.

I doubt that that amount of air is enough to cause your issues. My bet is on the GPs not functioning correctly. Do you have a friend who might have a meter? Maybe know an electrician that has one? Just a simple voltage reading would help. As a simple thing to try the next time the truck is...

Actually, those look like the stock Wellmans that were the OE glow plugs. It says 24v, but they aren't, they are 12v. If that is the case, then they should be fine, well... until they go bad. Please check the voltage going into and out of the glow plug relay when the Wait light is on. On the...

The glow plugs are supposed to be 12v in these trucks. Yes, they are connected to the 24v portion of the system, in stock form. However, the big resistor on the firewall and the resistance of all the *working* glow plugs drops the voltage the to correct 12v for the glow plugs. The original glow...

Could be air getting in the lines, or the GPs aren't heating up enough. Test the output of the GP solenoid when it is energized. They have been known to get carbon buildup on the contacts.

Leaking fuel lines on these trucks don't always leak full... they generally leak air into the lines. Try replacing the short section of return line on the IP with a clear fuel line. This will show if there is air getting into the lines. The OP states that the GPs have been replaced, but have...

Low coolant module or tach buffer would be my guess

I've not done it, but my understanding is that the joints from the factory have a plastic injected into them to take the place of the metal clip. You have to beat them out, or heat them until the plastic melts. I think this is mentioned in the TMs.

Actually, you *can* run right off the *front* battery for a 12v CB, radio, whatever. Of course, it should be fused, etc. If you want to get really tricky, it is possible to run 12v off the rear battery, but I wouldn't recommend it.

Maybe a shorted diode on the horn relay?

Most likely. I would strongly suggest that you pull *both* batteries, run them through a full charge cycle, and then have them load-tested. I suspect that the "good" battery really isn't.

Take a look in the -20p TM, get the part number, and then look up the specs. Google is your friend. There are two different bolts used to attach the top, those that go into the cab are longer than the ones in the bed rails. Don't know if they are the same size otherwise.