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I *would* change the fluid and filter... shouldn't cause any issues... What can cause issues is when one of those shops does the fluid flush. Those usually put in a lot of cleaning agents and seal conditioners, and all that can cause great heartache.

Having to bump the throttle to get the GEN lights to go out is mentioned in the TMs.

For what the seals cost, just replace them and rest easy. If you are in there anyway, do the job right! :D

And is there a video?

One of those boards is the tach buffer for the diagnostic port, can't recall what the other one is... The GP card housing has a slot on the side that mates with a plastic tab that is on the side of the framework above the steering column and pedal assemblies, assuming it is still there...

Heat and PB Blaster?

add info Sometimes the solenoid on the starter sticks in the engaged position, which will cause the starter to stay running. This could be caused by improper alignment of the stater and the flex plate or by the contacts in the solenoid on the starter arcing and welding themselves together...

The OP mentioned replacing the GP relay/solenoid... do we know if it is the correct type, IE isolated ground? If not, it is my understanding that a non-isolated ground GP solenoid can cause issues with GEN1.

Most auto parts places can make one for you... pull yours off, and take it in. Go for heavier gauge welding cable, if you can afford it.

I don't see any problem with option #1, even if the filter does become plugged... Not all of the coolant is flowing through the heater core, and there have been many instance of plugged heater cores not causing any issues other than a lack of heat in the cab.

Not enough...

Sorry, but that resistor bank, or ballast, is *only* used by the glow plug system, and has nothing whatever to do with any other system on these trucks.

Classic bad battery symptom... get them load tested..

Get the VIN number, and then look up the CUCV FAQ in the Stickys section of the CUCV Forum. If they are still there, there should be data plates on the driver's door. That will answer some of your questions. Oh, and please... DON'T USE ETHER! If any of the glow plugs are working in the least...

Isn't that what they use to cut down on emissions in the newer diesels?

Its just a Chevy pickup truck... I don't see why any company would have issues insuring them. AAA had no issues with my M1009, nor did my present insurer, Safeco. Perhaps some get hung up on the VIN, as most of the time they are not in the system.

nopics

Those rear buss bars are just connected to the 24v buss bars under the hood on the firewall. If you want it to run 12v, just remove the positive cable for the rear buss bar from the positive 24v buss bar and connect it to the positive side of the front battery. I would be careful what you run...

One thing that might help those giving advice to the OP: nopics

Can't speak to the current models, but I *love* my old Fluke 77...