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We are also taking about cars and trucks here, not space shuttles or super colliders... there is no great need, in general, for great precision or accuracy in the gauges the common users is going to interact with. While I would love to have 100% accurate gauges, I don't have that kind of money...

Cold / fast idle solenoid not working?

I don't know about you guys, but that looks to take a fuse that is much longer than the old Buss fuses used in older cars, etc.

An LED is just a diode that lights up, and, being a diode, only allows current flow in one direction. It is my understanding that current in the exciter circuit flows in both directions, depending on if the alternator is working or not, ie light on when not charging, as well as light on when...

The Magic 8 Ball says "No"

Silly question, but is there any chance that the wires connecting to the starter solenoid are either connected incorrectly, or shorting? Since you say you have a voltmeter, how about disconnecting the wires from the starter solenoid, keep them from touching anything, reconnect the batteries...

There is a fusible link thread listed in the Helpful threads sticky in the CUCV forums that discusses this. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?122571-Fusible-Links-101

Cascade failure has little to do with what make / model GPs are used. The real questions are the MTBF numbers for the various makes / models of GPs and if they tend to swell when exposed to a higher duty cycle or higher voltage. GPs that are self-limiting should do better in the swelling...

Martian supremacists group?

This is also covered in the CUCV FAQ in stickies section of the CUCV forum.

My guess would be either the ignition switch down low on the column, either a bad switch or the shaft that moves it is out of adjustment.

Possible bad fuel cutoff solenoid in the IP. Try pouring some water over the IP when this happens, and see if that helps. If so, then consider replacing the fuel cutoff solenoid.

I would suggest Hillbillywizard here on SS for those parts...

I should update this post, which is a bit overdue! We decided to make the move to Boundary County in Northern Idaho. The move took place this past September, and we are still settling in. Lots of work to do to get the property the way we want it, and I have to say that it is a bit overwhelming...

Well, if I had to guess, I'd have to say 'jealous' ...

You could use the later-year wiper motor that doesn't have the built in washer pump, that may allow it to run better. You'll need to add a pump for the washer then, either an in-line or get a later washer tank with pump built in.

Was it pouring out with the drive shaft removed, or after it was put back in? I would expect some to pour out when the shaft is removed. If it leaks after the shaft is put back in, that is a different matter.

In the civi Blazer / Jimmy, the whole passenger seat, base included, tilts forward to allow access to the back seat. That is the catch for the latch, same as the rear seat uses when it is not tilted forward.

First tip: Use paragraphs - makes it much easier to read Now, when you tore down the engine, did you pull the water pump? As I recall, there could be a place there where water can get into the block, as some of the bolts go right through some passages. Extra care is needed when installing the...

+ or - depending... :-D