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Did they know that they are isolated ground alternators and that they have to hook up the neg cable of the tester to the neg terminal on the back of the alt, and not the case?

I would test the alternators to ensure they are isolated ground alts. Connecting the 24v buses together with a straight wire created a dead short, as DH said. This could have blown fuses and / or fusible links. Please read the fusible link sticky at the top of the CUCV forum for more...

Perhaps you mistook DH's initial post as being directed at you? It was not.

It is not unheard of for the fuse box to melt, usually due to old/poor connections, etc leading to things heating up, hence the use of the headlight relay harness upgrade. I suspect it melted on the PO, and instead of fixing it, they band-aided it.

Another thing to check is the power steering pump bracket, as they are known to break and cause strange rattle noises.

This is all covered in the CUCV FAQ and other stickies in the CUCV forum, not to mention the obligatory reference to the TMs. But, to answer your question, those are for the GEN2 and Voltmeter relays. Apparently you missed the note on your Bill of Sale that said "some assembly required" :D

Looks good! Re the door data plate, that just means that they swapped in a door from another vehicle. I'm guessing the VIN on the data plate does not match the VIN on the dash, etc? The number painted on the door may, or may not, match what is on the data plate as well, depending on when it was...

I would expect so... there is nothing magical about the alts used in CUCVs, just a dedicated ground stud to accommodate an isolated-ground case.

The pin stuck in the steering column bracket has the usual two wings on it that can be squeezed together and pushed back through the hole. Or, that pin has sort of a rectangle head on it, that fits into a slot on the case that holds the GP card. The case *should* just slid up and off that pin...

As long as you disconnect the batteries before doing the doghead mod, thus preventing the possibility of shorting out something and blowing fuses or fusible links resulting in the GP or other systems not working, then... no.

That sounds like too large a drop to me. I would run the test again, taking a reading across each battery in turn. This is sort of a poor man's load test. If one drops much more than the other, then I'd suspect that battery has a bad cell.

To the OP: 1) Do you have a voltmeter? 2) You say the batteries were changed, can you post pictures to confirm they are connected properly? 3) If you do have a voltmeter, can you confirm the voltage on the connections at the starter, both when key off and key in cranking position? This might...

Guess someone isn't reading the whole thread... he says he did the Doghead mod in post #4 ( Sorry, hard to resist! )

Yes, there are plenty of threads that cover this. Rather than splicing into the wires, especially if you don't intend to use the military trailer connector any time soon, just get weather pack connectors and bypass the military trailer connector. Take a look at the pic in post #20...

I don't remember offhand, so I suggest you verify, but is the DH relay an isolated ground unit? If not, don't use it to replace the GP relay. Bad things have been known to happen!

Have you had the batteries load tested? From what I see in the video, my first thought is one of the batteries has a bad cell, and is failing under load.

I presume you are talking about the two-wire exciter plug? If so, then just about any auto parts house should have them in stock.

Voltage is only one measurement, and only tells part of the story of the batteries condition. The best test is done with a load tester. If you can take them to a local auto parts place, they may be able to load test them for you, often for free. As a simple test you can do at home if you don't...

You say you cleaned the check valve on the IP. Was it dirty? A lot, a little? Just about anything stuck in that check valve is an indication that the IP needs to be rebuilt either now, or very soon. I'd suggest pulling the top cover on the IP and see if there is debris in there. These IPs are...

A visible leak in a line is not necessary to allow air into the system. Some have used an air compressor to pressurize the system from the fuel filler neck to be able to see leaks.