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Those digits just say where it was built and what it is... you only need to worry about the ending digits, as those relate to a specific vehicle.

Or a non-isolated ground relay? In the stock system, there must be *NO* conductivity between the GP relay mounting tabs and any of the terminals, otherwise bad things can happen.

Starter relay, GEN2 relay, Voltmeter relay - for the starter relay, look up the Doghead mod

What model year did you tell them it was? If you said '86, then the computer is correct. The CUCVs were all built to '84 specs, no matter what year they were actually built. So, in '86 they didn't use a wiper motor with the pump built in. You need an '84 wiper motor, if you want the internal...

That sounds like a bigger leak than just the throttle shaft seals. It could very well be the fuel supply line that runs under the intake manifold, or a loose injector line. If it were me, and I liked the rest of the truck, I'd use the leak as a bargaining chip to lower the price, as I would...

It is possible that the relay is engaging like it is supposed to, but that the internal contacts are fouled with carbon buildup. I had to replace mine for that very reason. As mentioned before, follow the GP system trouble shooting steps outlined in the TMs. With that and a meter, the problem...

Isn't that first card shown in the video the tach buffer card? The glow plug card should be hanging down around the steering column. It may even still be attached to the bracket like it is supposed to be. I'm guessing that you only read voltage on the green ( blue ) wire when it was connected...

If you read the stickies in the CUCV forum and go over the TMs, the 24v portion of the truck are not too bad to deal with. Only the starter and the glow plugs are using the 24v portion, the rest of the truck is 12v. For the Injection Pump leak, he is probably talking about the throttle shaft...

No, the bulbs for GEN1 and GEN2 are different...

Perhaps a bad diode trio. It can charge while the engine is running, but then draw through the a bad diode when not running. Put an ammeter on the output lead and see if it is drawing when the engine is not running.

That helps a lot, Thanks!

I'm curious about this as well. Not just with this particular plow, but in general. I now live in an area that may get snow on occasion, and being able to plow it myself is desirable. However, I'm not too keen on adding more holes, etc. to the truck. I might have to buy another CUCV to dedicate...

Take a look at the pic in post #20... http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?46121-Trailer-Wiring-adapter-for-CUCV&p=932493&viewfull=1#post932493

The voltmeter in the dash is not a precision instrument. If the voltages measured at the alternator outputs and the batteries is withing spec, then I'd call it good. Perhaps the dropping resistor on the back of the voltmeter is out of tolerance?

You can just buy the weatherpack connectors and wire your own into the existing harness. This was done by another member here.

The thing I would try is to measure the voltage on the two terminals of the solenoid on the starter when this is happening.. have Soldier B turn the key to the crank position while Soldier A takes the measurements. Then you will know pretty certainly if it is a starter problem, or somewhere else...

Is the check valve on the IP clean?

Congratulations! Don't forget that you can check the website, as the license will show up there before the letter gets to your mailbox! Just do a License Search! http://wireless.fcc.gov

http://store.snapon.com/Spark-Plug-Gauges-Gappers-Gauge-Wire-Gap-for-Point-Ignition-Systems-P635166.aspx

Any chance to see a picture of how this looks when installed? I presume it requires some cutting, etc? I'd like to do this, but don't want to cut anything... Thanks!