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So, do you listen to Code Monkey by Jonathan Coulton while you are pushing buttons? :D

Try running water through the heater core with a garden hose. Another test would be to bypass the heater core and see if the rest of the temp conditions are back to normal.

Mine was trans fluid seeping around the trans oil pan drain plug. Now that it is fixed, I can't call it Spot anymore...

I'd guess that fuel hose is thicker, but if it fits, it should work.

If you find out, let me know.. they are pretty much NLA ( No Longer Available ) from any source I, and others, have tried. You really don't need it anyway, just connect directly, remembering Top for Transmission.

I'm just running whatever was in the Rancho chart for an '84 K5.

Post pictures of the wiring on the alt, etc. If that really is a resistor on the exciter wire plug, perhaps someone bypassed the dash light.

Nope... not jealous at all, not me, not one bit.... :mrgreen:

The way I read the wiring diagrams, it appears that the relay is energized via the 12v side of things...

Perhaps it will work properly in a 12v converted CUCV if the resistor is removed from the back of the gauge?

To provide a useful answer, please post how the glow plug system is wired on your truck. Pictures help too!

No, in this case it is a 12v gauge with a 300 ohm resistor across the terminals on the back to form a voltage divider network. Seems to me they should have just used a regular 24v gauge and saved all the trouble.

Mine too... I'm thinking someone put the pan from the HMMWV on it.

That is a short drive, why not just drive it?

I believe the TMs have the procedure for determining if shims are needed, and how to choose the proper shims.

I don't think you have a choice other than to pull it apart and replace the switch.

I'm not sure, but I think the TM has a diagram showing it. I also seem to recall some other threads here on SS with pictures of it.

Probably a burned fusible link under the hood. They can *appear* to be good to the eye, so some suggest tugging on them to see if they come apart. They may even pass a continuity test, but won't handle any real load. I believe there is a thread in the CUCV forum stickies about them.

Did you make sure that the ford relay is an isolated ground unit, as the correct relay is? If not, and it is wired the way it was supposed to be, your GEN 1 may be in danger, as this has caused failures before...

What great timing! My wife was just saying the other day that she thinks the couch would look better on the other wall. Of course, that would mean moving the entertainment center as well. And, if the entertainment center is moved, the sub and surround speakers will have to move too. Hmm... now...