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Great looking trailer! May I ask how much it was, and do they have any more? :p

The CUCVs came with isolated ground alternators in both the GEN 1 and GEN 2 spots, though only GEN 2 *MUST* be an isolated ground alternator. It was just easier to stock only one type of alternator. This is taken from the CUCV wiki:

It sounds like GEN 1 may have a short. It is possible that some of the fusible links have burned out as well. You'll need to check all the wiring relating to the battery cables and fusible links.

They are solenoids...

I think you are fine. As long as the charging voltages measured at the batteries are within spec, it should be good. My volt meter reads just over the line into the red, which would indicate an overcharge condition. However, measuring the voltage at each battery shows it is fine. One thing to...

The drivers-side alternator, GEN 1, charges the front battery, which provides power to all 12v systems in the truck. My guess is that GEN 1 quit working. I would suggest pulling it and taking it in to have it tested. I would also fully charge and then load test both batteries. Rebuild kits for...

Yes, you have to bump the throttle to get the Gen 1 light to go off. This is normal. As for the voltmeter readings, this is probably due to the cycling of the glow plugs and their "after glow" cycle.

Follow the Gen trouble shooting procedure in the TM. Are the correct voltages getting to the plug on the back of the alternator? Is the ground strap from the alternator to the engine good? Is the ground strap from the engine to the buss bar good? Perhaps take the alternator in to the auto...

I believe that is what is left of the factory dielectric grease. It can be cleaned with electrical contact cleaner and a brush. Be sure to apply fresh dielectric grease when putting it back together!

I didn't see it posted, but perhaps I missed it... what are the alternators putting out measured at the back of the alt? For the horn problem, what is the problem? If the horn is sounding continuously, check for a bad diode on the horn relay. You can either replace the diode, or just remove it...

I was looking at these when they were on sale a while back, but saw too many bad reviews. Most issues seemed to be poor quality control on the stitching and fading issues. So now I'm looking at the reproduction military ones that Jatonka makes. I'll be interested to hear what you decide to do...

I must have missed the follow-up to this.. what was causing the problem?

What about replacing the windshield with one that has the embedded AM/FM antenna? That is my plan, though me glass is in good shape as it is, so I'm a bit reluctant.

Were the batteries disconnected when you removed the dash? It is very easy to short out the terminals on the back of the volt meter. Perhaps a fuse or link blew? Are the blackout lights on? They can drain the batteries over several days, and they are darn hard to notice in the daylight. Has...

What is the output of the alternator when measured at the back of the alt? Perhaps the alt is not getting the signal to start charging? If the output at the back of the alt is 14.4~, then measure at various points along the cable to the battery and see if the point of loss can be determined.

The M101A2 wheels are the same as the pickup-based CUCVs, but not the M1009. The M1009 is 6 lug, the rest are 8 lug.

Look for the shiny patches around the rim of the filter base in the pictures. That is where the "ears" have been ground off.

Many on here have replaced the heater cores in their CUCVs, I've read a few posts about it. I have not replaced mine yet. It does not leak, but I think it needs a good flushing. The capacitor is only there for noise suppression for the radios. It is not needed for the operation of the blower...

Please pardon my ignorance, but what is the point of converting them from gen 3 back to gen 2? Is it to use cheaper or easier to find filters? I'm thinking about converting my CUCV to the fm100 system, is there a reason to choose gen 2 over gen 3? Oh, and can you tell me where that girl is...

As long as they aren't shorting out, it should matter. These are not precision instruments, and should only be considered a guideline. The resistor on the back of the meter is not exact, the meter movement isn't exact. If it is in the ballpark, I wouldn't worry about it. Mine reads just a shade...