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Mount on dash is for a part of the radio, not sure what exactly though. The bars in the back, on the right side of the rear seat are the 24v power buss for the radio equipment that goes on the shelf back there. Please post pics, the peeps here love the pics!

I have no practical experience with this, but i think I'd want at least a new spring and dust boot. The plunger can be examined for wear, etc.

Please take a look at the TM's here on this site. There is a very helpful trouble-shooting section in them, including one for the glow plug system. The glow plugs are pretty much just little heaters, and are only needed when doing a cold start. Once the engine is up to temp, you won't need to...

Hey! That would get me written up on harassment charges, if not fired! Oh, wait, just saw the picture, never mind...

I presume this also means you have to be certain that whatever you are powering off this "second leg" is completely isolated from the chassis?

Here is one thread you might find interesting: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/56682-what-why-did-smoke.html Post 18 shows one popular method. The other is to go directly to the 12v buss right next to the glow plug relay. Part of the problem with the resistor setup is that as each glow plug...

Were the glow plugs working before? If not, it could just be dust and dirt burning off the resistor. You know, like when you turn on the heater in your house for the first time when the cold season starts. You could also just do the 12v bypass and eliminate the resistor. When I did the bypass...

:ditto: Got mine from NAPA, no problem!

But...but... what about all those broken prads? I wouldn't want to drive one of those with a broken prad, would you? Someone has to care for the prads! Oh, the humanity!

I've also heard that the blower motor switch can be a cause of issues with the GEN 1 light coming on when the blower is turned on. I bought a new one from cucvelectric, but have yet to install it. I like the idea of the blower motor resistor though!

As far as I know, there is no after market part for the starter support brackets. As you may know, there is a different one depending on which starter being used. I was able to get the support bracket for the gear reduction starter online from, I think, GM Parts Direct. You are correct, the part...

And don't forget to check the wheel bearings...

When I had a battery going bad, it was the front one. You'd get the classic chattering of the starter solenoid so typical of a weak / dead battery. The battery failed a load test. As a temporary fix, I swapped the batteries around, placing the weak one in the rear position. My thinking was...

Yup, tach buffer for the ICE... If you GP card is where it is supposed to be, it should be up on the side of the brackets under the dash above the steering column. There is a little clip the GP controller housing mounts on. From what I understand, many of them are just left swinging from the cable.

It would seem so :grin:

My guess would be that the starter solenoid is stuck in the engaged position.

Did you test for voltage at the brake light switch? Perhaps a bad connection at the fuse box? It could also be the emergency flasher switch. Take a look at the wiring diagrams in the back of the TMs... those brake light wires go all over the place!

Are you sure it wasn't the tach buffer card you were looking at? My understanding is that the tach buffer card is much smaller than the GP card.

Well, you could do it just for peace of mind, and keep the old one as a spare. If finances are tight though, there are probably other things needing attention. Just my 2cents I bought a used one, and replaced my working one with it. Partly as a test of the "new to me" card, and then put my...

The section of wire between the barrel and the connector is the fusible link, usually a smaller diameter wire than the one it is attached to via the barrel. The barrel may have markings on it to specify the size of the fusible link. The link may fail without any visible damage. You can gently...