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The external cap is a noise suppressor, and is not needed unless you get noise over your radio. So, its fine to leave it off. Cart, horse, barn door, etc.... should always disconnect the batteries when doing electrical work. I'm sorry, but I don't have a spare to send. The passenger side alt...

With those load test results, I'd say that is a failing battery.

Looks good! Where did you buy the seals for the top? I've got mine off to repair a rust hole, and should replace the seals while I'm in there.

I'd love some numbers for the bridge plate on my M1009, but I don't think it'd be worth shipping them from there to here! Thanks for posting this stuff, your pictures from the last trip led me to the brush guards I needed for my antenna mount. Stay shiny and keep flying

If this was GEN1, the extra wire is probably the tach signal wire for the STE/ICE connector, and is not needed.

Kinda sorta, I think... The resistor bank, in combination with the glow plugs, drops the voltage to ~12v. As the glow plugs fail, that voltage goes up. As I said though, it was just my thoughts on what caused mine to stop passing voltage through the relay... it was energizing, but only passing...

Test the glow plug relay, make sure it is passing though the 12v supply to the glow plugs. Mine started failing not long after doing the resistor bypass. My guess would be that after years of use with ~24v or so coming into it, the contact surfaces of the relay are carboned up, and so the 12v...

Both GEN1 and GEN2 are, in stock form, isolated ground alts. Only GEN2 MUST be an isolated ground alt. Perhaps he meant that it was "positive ground" in that GEN2 takes its ground reference from the output of GEN1? Was GEN2 tested? Was it rebuilt? Rebuild kits can be bought from places like CUCV...

I used group 31 batteries from Interstate. They were what they called "econopower" or something, and are refurbished. They cost me about $35 each, and come with a warranty. They fit fine in the trays. My truck came from GL with group 31 batteries to begin with, so the battery tray hold down...

...um, maybe you could just install the two car batteries in the truck?

Just ask the Mayor of New York... EXCLUSIVE: Mayor Bloomberg's aides install room air conditioner on one of his SUV's side windows in the City Hall parking lot - NYPOST.com

I'd print out the Lubrication Order, and then would only print out the sections that apply to the part of the truck you are working on at the time. I predict that withing 8 months you'll have printed the entire collection of TMs! :-D

Always start with fully charged and load-tested batteries. First rule of CUCVs: "if its electrical, clean it" ( and "if its rubber, replace it" ) Take apart and clean every electrical connection you can find. Disconnect the batteries and then open up the connections at the firewall under the...

I have one from Wolfer in my truck now. Looked just like the one that it replaced. I'm happy with the whole transaction with them, and would buy from them again.

I've read that if the valve fails, excess pressure can build up in the crankcase, often seen as oil leaking past the rear main seal.

Found out I posted this in the wrong forum before, so my apologies if you are reading this for the second time! Anyone going to be at Barstow before the next auction session of 7/3/12? If so, I'd love to have an item or two looked at. Thanks in advance!

I have not tried it on tree sap, but brake cleaner worked great on my truck. My wife has a coworker who was in the service, and he said they were told to wipe them down with straight diesel.

Anyone headed to Barstow before the next auction cycle on 7/3/12? If so, I'd appreciate them taking a look at two items there for me. Thanks!

Read up on the doghead mod for the starter relay, don't put that old one back in there. As for Gen 2, there is a good trouble shooting guide in the TM's, which are available on this site. It could be as simple as the Gen 2 bulb being burnt out. Don't assume that just because a part is new that...

Sounds like no 24v into the cab. Check the red wire at the starter relay under the dash with a DVM. Should read about 24v. If not, then perhaps the fusible link off the 24v buss bar is bad, or maybe the 24v circuit fuse in the fuse box.