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And the water-in-fuel light...

If we are talking about an M1009, wasn't there a change between years in the internal parts of the hubs? I seem to remember reading that here somewhere.

Will you just tap into the diag connector wiring for the alternator tach connection? If you can do that, it would save running a wire to the alt. Where to you plan to mount the gauge?

Or you could check the TMs...

While you are under there checking the motor mounts, be sure to check the trans mount! Third point of contact and all that...

If at all possible, an inventory would be a great help in determining what people are interested in. The pictures look fantastic, but I can only guess at what most of those parts are for. At the very least, a list of NSNs, even without a description, would be awesome!

Cool info, thanks! I had not read about different tanks, etc. Mine is in good shape, but should I need to replace it at some point, I'd like the extra capacity! Please post more on your progress! I love this site, I'm always learning something new!

Is it this one? It was posted the other day in a Gamma Goat thread... http://www.steelsoldiers.com/gama-goat/79776-gama-goat-owner-err-herder-7.html#post1020494

I think I'm missing something. Why do you need a 31 gallon sending unit? I thought the M1009's tank was only 27 gallons? Is there a larger tank available?

Pull the inspection plate and examine the teeth. Should also check the bolts between the flexplate and the torque converter while you are in there.

Silly thought alert - What about a build-up of back-pressure in the exhaust system? Maybe someone built a nest in the mufflers. I've also heard of the material inside the muffler breaking down and causing a blockage.

But isn't the heater blower relay part of the GEN 1 circuit? Couldn't a short or something caused by a rodent chewing the wires affect that circuit? I think it is just the fuse that is shared, but I don't know where the splice is that joins the two circuits.

Could be that the starter relay is going bad. I would replace in on General Principals, because if it fails in the closed position, you could be looking at a lot of repairs to wiring and the starter. The Doghead mod is simple, cheap insurance.

The service light switch is tied into your normal parking/running/headlights. You could probably wire around it, or just tuck it up behind the dash someplace.

Hard to say, could work intermittently, not at all, stay on too long, not stay on long enough, burning electronics smell, irritating rash, itching... There are a few people on here that diagnose and repair them, as well as build upgraded modern versions. I think one is antennaclimber and the...

The GP controller card is 12v no matter what. The GP relay that is controlled by the GP controller card is 12v for its coil, and, in a stock setup, switches 24v through the big resistor bank on the firewall to the GPs. The combination of the resistor bank and the resistance of all the GPs drops...

I've been wondering about the Hi-Lift jacks... I think they are great, and very useful... but am wanting to know if they damage the bumper when used to lift the truck? Are there other lift points that can be used on an M1009 or 08 with the Hi-Lift?

The GP card cycles the GP relay on and off. It _must_ be an isolated relay, meaning no conductivity between the small terminals and the relay case / mounting tabs. If it has an "s" on one of the terminals, it is probably the wrong relay and is not isolated. Using a non-isolated relay can cause...

I learned a long time ago not to pay "up front" money, and to instead go with an agreed upon payment schedule, when I'm contracting for work to be done. I hope it all works out for you and that you get a nice New Years gift!

I would disconnect the horn and see if the fuse still blows. If so, then there is a short in the wiring somewhere, you'll have to trace it out. If not, then test the horn itself, perhaps it is shorting out. There is also a diode on the horn relay, and when it fails it can lead to the horn...