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EDIT : DONT NEED READ POST #2
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the down pipe direct from the turbo outlet .
is it direct fit or small adaptor in the middle between turbo and / adaptor / down pipe ?
mine has one ( non original engine ) and it is missing the flare for...
redoing the upper gasket/springs / unloader valve section on a 8.3 in a 936a2 .
anyone got the tsm # off hand for the torque specs for the hardware ?
thanks .
find the civi parts and add them .
the motor side is just a plate between the mount and block .
as long as the tranny has the 6 bolt aluminum convertor cover with the 2 bolt hole bosses on it .
from what I have read the 8.3 cummins don't like more than 1800-2k rpm max of the bottom ends let go .
better recheck your home work . . . .
I could be wrong tho .
boy I got 1 thing to say
just walk away from the problem fam member and don't look back . its not worth it . and a criminal record will screw you for ever these days . stay clean and straight .
lots of big truck supply shops ( aka big truck auto parts stores ) can get / sell you the stuff for the hydro's .
and some if it is a common engine might even have direct bolt bracket kits .
to keep hoses to a min maybe look at electric control valves .
boss has his KW road truck / wrecker and he hates the dam abs system for winter time .
pulse the air brakes like a working abs system does you you now have nothing . because the air is gone and to low to release them and your still screwed .
so ya its a catch 22 . . . . .yes / no . . . ...
looks all oem .
I found another one under the middle of dash in front of the ctis box area . its got a 3 or 4 amp light pink / purple fuse in it . that one is fine .
so if its the abs is that a good thing to leave off ? ? I know and have read some on here the abs can be touchy . this will be...
works on smaller scale with atv's
maybe use a snatch block to help with the load down on the plow end so the cable goes down / around pulley block / back up to frame .
just get a good quality winch no CHINA crap .
but also it wouldn't take much to just do a engine drivin hydrolic clutch...
found this inline fuse under the dash left side almost to the left kick panel . 1 wire goes over to middle or so area of dash . other goes few inches then behind firewall pad/panel what ever stuff.
is got a 15 amp mini fuse . I got a few extra and installed 1 . as soon as it even touched it...
weld the next size bigger nut to the broken bolt / stud let it fully cool off . then try real easy by hand NO power tools .
if no go heat the area around it .
some times it takes a few nuts to get it to come out .
been doing this for years .
the drag link from the steering box / pitman arm to the steering arm / on the knuckle is this adjustment point .
and the lift kit if 3" or more should have included a raised steering arm for the knuckle on the axle .
the drop pitman arm is a lot more rare to get in a kit and cost a lot more...
and the little tubes on the factory bolts are NOT to space the crossmember down . doing this over time will break the frame rail lips .
as said droping the t-case is a bandaid for the rear but kills the front .
well the local parts stores are dumb or something ? ? ?
all they can find me is the air comp to timing cover gasket .
no one has a clue on the p/s pump to the back of the compressor . and I see the old gasket pattern there so I know there was one on there at some point.
anyone got part #'s...
blown out at head to jug body in back pointing at engine block .
cramed my hand up in there with cold engine and full air buildup . gasket falling apart so brittle.
figured slide p/s pump back and 2 nuts on t-cover studs and few lines and swap whole comp for the good used one we have on hand .
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