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Man that is looking great. This is what I am needing to do on mine but want to strip mine down when I am a little closer to actually building out the back.

Nice work.

Too bad you guys are not local to me. I am going to be pulling off the hitch that was installed on my M1010. Would let it go cheap but not worth trying to ship.

Agreed but the nice thing about keeping the relay is, you take all of the load off of the ignition switch. Removing the relay means the higher current gets passed through the ignition switch.

Relays are an electromechanical item and subject to failure like anything else. Could just be a bad relay, if you have checked all of your wiring and found that is all good. If they never failed, why would they be selling them? I would say replace and move on.

If your frame is not already cracked, then ORD offers a steering brace kit to prevent it. If it is, they offer a frame repair piece too. I put the brace on my last M1010 and will on my current one. http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/steeringkit.htm

The knurled part is to take up any slop space in the starter nose bolt holes, since alignment is critical to proper engagement and to prevent any possible movement. GM has been doing that for decades.

I would like to but likely not. I want to keep the alts on the pass side as stock as I am going to replace the driver side A/C compressor with a new one when I put in cab A/C (I am going to remove the box A/C system).

Looking at the pic, I would venture the rear lower port is pressure side. It appears to share the same plumbing up to the oil pressure sender port, if you look at how the block casting is. Seems like those two share that same internal routing. One in the side of the block is likely the return...

Have you installed this kit? I like the idea of not messing with the stock heater assembly and basically adding on an A/C system. Would like to get some real user feedback about this system. I had been looking at the Vintage Air system but kind of like this.

I am running 255/85-16 (33") and clear no problem with stock wheels (I have since changed wheels as I had a bent one). That is about the max. This is on my M1010 which has less wheel well clearance in the back as a M1008.

Sadly no. Since I need to put in the coolant sensor, my plan is to flush the cooling system, replace hoses and install my Paradox cooling upgrade. Just have not had any time or space.

Yeah, I agree that it is good to know. Nice thing is we have a GVW of 9450 lbs so we have a lot of room left. When I had my Dodge Ram with Cummins diesel and the Four Wheel Camper popup, I scaled in about 8400 lbs. with a max GVW of 8800 lbs. Since the "camper" is already part of the M1010 at...

Yeah, I had to mine weighed to get it titled in CA. Mine scaled out, half tank fuel, stock wheels (which are heavy!) and the box setup like yours at 6480 lbs. :)

Awesome progress! You have been busy. Can't wait to get more time with mine.

Sweet! I am loving that cabinet you picked up.

Got time to work on this project some more over Labor Day. Very happy how this is coming out.

That sucks. Sending best wishes to Mike and a speedy recovery. Just kick ass and keep the fight going.

I have been using Silblades on my last few vehicles and they have been awesome. Fit great (just put a set on my M1010 and Cherokee) and on my Ram they were on for 4 years, sitting out in the SoCal sun and still worked like new. As far as I know the new owner has had them on for the last 2...

The way GM has wired (and most manufacturers) their headlight switches, it typically ends up with voltage loss at the headlight sockets. I have seen as much as 2 volts loss going through all the wiring and dash switch. You are also running all of the current though the switch, which over time...