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Howdy! Come play with us at Supersitition!

About? Exactly! I run a machine and welding/millwright shop and my caliper and tape measure are always on me. Very handy. Grandpa said, "You gotta be like a cowboy, your caliper is your six-shooter, you always have it on you".

Just walked out and measured with my vernier caliper, 1-5/16".

soak in a 5 gall bucket of oil

Also check pressure relief valve on the secondary and final filter rack. Install pressure gauge in bleeder port for sure.

Acetone and ATF

I like my 11.00s. It was just too slow without them. I couldn't stand to run it at redline. Waterloo on top of it would be nice.

I could likely pretty easily make adapters if I knew the thread spec. I'll take a look when I get a round tuit, unless someone knows offhand.

I would think the inside concave surface of the button needs to be perfectly smooth and polished, as well as the convex end of the plunger, and they need to match. If it's not scratched or cracked, I'd keep it. Then again, the pic Floridian posted looks rough and dimpled on the inside, as if...

Went thru the same thing. This is why I keep posting everywhere that the plunger needs to move a good 3/8", not 1/8" or 1/4". It's not just whether it moves or not. I'm in process of producing stronger, heavier duty clips, but still developing them, sorry!

I have a joint minus rubber cleaned up to play with. Tricky thing is the ball is not round, more football shaped. I/we have been slammed at work and I'm ashamed of the lack of progress on the HH clips, so I need to get that done first. Having trouble with the die/forming part.

I have an idea to CNC machine hard plastic cups to fit on wither side of the stock/original ball and some plates to fit around the torque rod end to capture them. Maybe shims to take up slack as they wear. What do you think, Gringeltaube and Rusty?

Point being...do it! ...before I beat you to it with one of my parts deuces. BTW...simply building a tower on the back of a tow vehicle and pulling upward on the towed vehicle greatly increases traction and pulling power...to the point of breaking stuff...I know. ;-)

I have a 12k winch in the bed of my Xcab Longbed Cummins Dodge with a boom I built. Truck is on 39" LAV tires, locked diffs, slinky suspension. It's dragged a lot of stuck/broken down jeeps, sand rails, and F250s out of a lot of places.

In tank pump should make 5-7 psi. Injection booster pump on the side on the IP should make 30 at idle, about 100 full throttle. Install a pressure gauge in the bleeder port on the secondary/final filter housing.

Plunger needs to move about 3/8". With the button off, it will move, but not enough.

How long does the WD last?

Me three! I have known about it for quite a while, it's killing me.

I don't have much, other than to echo what other's have said. Evolution and changeover especially. I've had a lot of fun investigating A1s and other trucks from that transitional era. Looking in paint for evidence of bed U-bolts, fuel tank hangers for exhaust notches, etc. I'm very excited to...

Excellent. Subscribing. I need to get around to puttin' the big LDS turbo, etc. on my '70.