Search results

Their specific reason couldnt tell you. Reasons it might be: type of insulation. might be a multi purpose part. Tap rule.

Transformer spot on Generator, lets assume you are running 20 amps and 0. The field windings have to create a magnetic field strong enough to incuce 20 amps of current and the stronger the field the more work the engine must perform. The unloaded leg is subject to the same strength magnetic...

You are welcome to your opinion, and are more than welcome to follow any information you see fit, your loss of efficiency is not my problem. Yes the neutral current carries the unbalanced load, and without it solidly grounded the voltages would fluctuate to dangerous (to equipment) levels...

The closer to balanced the less wasted energy, in an electrical distribution system the neutral (L0) carries the unbalanced load back to the source. Example: if you draw 10 amps on 1 leg and 7 on the other the neutral is carrying 3 amps back to the source and is not performing the work it is...

It almost looks like it isnt detecting phase A.

If your meter supports it there will be a spot marked Hz (some meters have it as a secondary function and you need to press a button for it) Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

start with verifying output voltage and frequency with a known good multimeter

winding numbering should be fairly standard, but how you restructure them can slightly change. I would use the diagram form the TM as that is how it will get tapped with the reconnection switch.

It looks like he wired double delta, And the Polaris connector count is correct. If i had to venture a guess the 3 wires are instrumentation and AVR feed. It looks like it will work that way. Your 003, did it loose the avr or did a winding fail? Another issue you might have is getting...

Seems simple enough, I can try to guide you through repairing it

Try this, with the breaker off and the generator not running, check the resistance of the output terminals to each other and to ground. You may have a wiring fault downstream of the breaker. The spark and motor skip has me suspecting a short.

Need a pigtail that your rv can plug into (can cannibalize a RV extension cord or get a rv outlet) You might just get the overkill award though :p

Theres another thread on that in here somewhere. Iirc you can loosen the nuts on the back, use contact cleaner and work it loose. The other thread is well detailed. The start circuit is rather easy to trace. Follow the diagram on the top of the control cube (if not look in the -12 TM Sent...

If all else fails use a 24 volt relay to send 12 volt to the solenoid Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Is it just a solenoid or is the starter fried? If you cant source repair parts for it(its not really impossible) , how about only having 12 volt trigger the starter? Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Looking at the diagrams and it shouldnt, But i do recall a procedure for testing the alternator circuit with a resistor, SOOO it might not be the best idea to run it with no battery

Here is a thought get a meter that has a min max function. Use the wiring diagram to find a point about halfway in the circuit. Set the meter to min mode and if it still dips down its closer to the source. If it does not catch the flicker its closer to the load. Sent from my SM-G973U using...

The readings are on 1 generator right?

Its not just the head, theres a few other things that need swapped as well. The TMs should have the part numbers, just need to compare the two.

Ok so first thing use a multimeter ( or in a pinch a kill-a-watt meter) to read actual frequency ( the onboard meters can go bad) The slow shutdown sounds to me like the fuel solenoid in the IP is sticking. A video would probably be helpful in this case.