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They are very expensive plus I prefer the natural lines of the rocker and not some tube or boxed extension. Some of the workmanship on this is very nice but just not what I want. I also dont want to make the truck any wider than it already is. A lot of the trails around where I am are already...

I am building a set that are covers that extend 3" up the rocker sides then continue up the wheel wells an additional 12". They are then running all the way to the frame rails under the truck too. If they turn out nice I might build up a jig and make a few more sets too.

I have run a mix of used motor oil and unleaded gas. It works but is dirty.

I live up at altitude and it does get cold. Not often negative numbers but I dont like starting anything that is not pre-heated. Diesels are nasty when cold. Both my daily driver Audi's have all three fluids pre-heated on timers starting a few hours before start times. My fuel consumption is...

I am installing a tranny heater, pan heater and coolant recirculating heater on a 110V circuit with additionally a dual fuel heating system. One heater for the tank and one for the filters that runs on 24V with a dash switch.

ebay

Look what I got today. Stanley HYD Chainsaw but with the added Cutoff Saw Conversion kit. Two tools in one! Once I have fittings I will let you guys know how it works. I have a pole fence I need to put in shortly so I think this might come in handy along with the LOWE Auger attachment ;)

How about a simple arm attached to the top of the roll bar right above the center of the tire. A 2"/4" box beam about 4'-5' long (install tall side up) with a single shouldered bolt on the roll bar thru the tube to mount it but allow it to swing also. The bottom of the tube could be routed out...

I am not home to take a pic, but what is that errant connector lead with a dual heaf plug that is loosely draped over the fuel pump? I guessed it goes to the optional hood mounted 24V solar charger? I have seen the same cord on some of the pics of your trucks too.

My issue is that the master does nothing. Key in or not it is passing power. I have a haunting suspicion it is miss wired. I have a replacement but i think i may have to tilt to do it.

I thought about the same thing with a heavy duty worm drive electric actuator in 24V. The kind you find on automatic gate openers but industrial sized. About $300 gets a strong one around 1000lbs.

So guys in the know. How long and complicated is it to tilt the cab? I dont have the brackets either but lots of tools ;). Is it worth doing just for going over everything? I do need to change the master switch or rewire it so that is one reason to do it.

They are headlights and in the case of a "farm" vehicle and are legal. They have hi/low too so good to go when you need flash to pass on the highway ;)

The lights are metal buckets with rubber inserts that hold the lamp. Simply peal the rubber off away from the bucket. However an alternative is to leave the rubber in the can and pry out just the bulb. I think the latter is faster but might be risky if you are not patient. In my case it took...

I had a 6 point knocking on my door the other day. Also had a moose drinking from my dogs outdoor water bowl ;) a few days ago. I live at the base of the Uintas at 7500ft in North Eastern Utah.

Taste test, 10 weight is a bit nutty, HYD is a little sweet. Wish I knew!

H4 housings are the Euro version of the headlight housings. USA spec are sealed bulb/housing where H4s are replaceable bulb versions. So with the H4 housings and the LED H4 format bulbs I have what you see.

Pics of the new LED lights. These are H4 housings with hi/low LED bulbs. Half the power and twice the light!

I am 90% sure that the air fittings are standard 1/2 pipe so a 1/2 Air hose quick release should work. I will buy a couple today (all I have are 3/8 versions) and see if I am right. The trick will be to make sure they press in the button when installed. Alternatively since the female air hose...

It can connect to either side at the rubber capped fitting with the plastic button which needs to be pushed in to open up the valve. I found that out the other day. I was wondering why those were there at all till I found it in the operators manual. I actually want to cap those with a fitting...