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The plan is for the capability to run alternate fuels from the left side tank. I'm going to hopefully add either a heating coil like Bjorn or a small heat exchanger (radiator) to the inside of the tank. Though coil of tubing would be easier.
Still, 110 gallons of fuel will make for more range...
Not really. They're pretty straightforward in installation. 4 bolts per "L". They're tricky to install as the bolt holes have to be done carefully so you don't cut wires or worse puncture fuel/brake/air lines which run on the inside of that frame rail. 3/8" bolts are used, grade 8. I used a...
FreightTrain, I'd go with a tag type trailer for a dump truck with air brakes. I bought a VERY cheap trailer that needed new brakes and wiring from a friend for $1000 that works perfect behind my deuce. I tow a 3 ton armored car with it and I've gone from Atlanta to the Philly area and back once...
I'd figure that a properly run hardline would be easy to run from the normal location under the cab floor to the firewall. It's just a matter of finding the right type of vent line and tube and just a matter of adapting it all together. A polycarbonate container with a bottom hole would be ideal...
It takes a bit of wiggling the top and bottom to get the right spacing. Especially if you've put on new shoes. I suspect new shoes will need to be re-adjusted after they wear in too.
So I've hung the second fuel tank and am now working on the plumbing and wiring. I've been stumped for the past few days on the issue of powering the fuel pumps alternatingly. I initially thought to power them off the mains from the cab and split the feed to the right side pump so I could power...
RE: Master cyllinder question
Yeah. It's a pain. I recently filled mine to the brim (tricky to fill it cleanly) and then did work on the brakes and of course forced fluid into the breather line (that's what the line is) and that of course blasted fluid out onto the top of the air filter housing...
I think that's the idea. They look like they're off of an AFV so that trucks had some parts swapping going on or something. Could most likely be for convoy's at night and using IR for driving. Plus the extra IR light helps you see details on the road you might miss using just ambient light.
I'd check grounds to be sure they're all good then check connections. I dont' have this issue with my truck. The blower grounds through the chassis, so make sure it's got a good metal to metal contact with the fender.
RE: Blake
I've used bullet connectors when I had to, but I prefer using the packard connectors to keep it all Milspec on the truck. What's the point of having a milspec truck when you mix non-milspec parts on it that won't hold up as well when you take it in the water or what not?
Most likely that's VERY contaminated fuel. Could be due to the temperature that it was slightly gelled and was a higher gelling point diesel. Typical fuels you should see are either some form of diesel, JP5 or JP8. Both of those are very unlikely to gel as they have some additives and are of...
Why would a shuttle valve pushing some air be a huge bother for the diff? It's moving a pistion no? That's not a lot of air movement. Wouldn't some air lines be simpler and more bullet proof?
Amerline is the company :
http://www.amerline.com/singlewire.htm
Bruce Beattie and I were talking about a group by but as typical, things like this fall by the wayside for bigger issues.
From the e-mail he forwarded...
Of course now that I look at that e-mail, it was 2 years ago. :roll...
The BO Light is pretty protected given how it's recessed in the bumper. If somethings getting through that bumper then it's probably going to do a number on the grill too!
For it's size and weight, I'd say a platform/box that's designed to sit/swing out from the rear of the shelter just above the tail gate. The idea being, you can be in the shelter and step out to tend to the generator. Mount something on the exhaust as a stack. If it's on a pivot like David...
I'd like to see about doing a group buy for connectors so we could make up assortments for our own use. The manufacturer's sell them in lots of 100 min.
The different engine probably needed more cooling so they needed a wider radiator and wanted the headlights pushed further out so you could get better spacing. I suspect the black out drive lamp is more useful where it's not illuminating the top of the bumper, not that the driver can see any of...
Could be the air switch is stuck. Try putting some lubricant through that. If the contact part of the switch is open, try squirting some contact cleaner into it.