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Yes, agreed, but then again, I have rebuilt many airpacks and am pretty familiar with the innards. If an airpack worked correctly and then stopped working,, or failed gradially you can be pretty confident that the innards are correct. ANy unknown situation bears more research and careful...

I have seen where someone put a big oval ring in the pintle hitch (like ten inches long) and they hooked the sled to the ring. It helps to lower the center line of the sled to the truck as it tends to unweight the front of the truck, let alone the front rear tandem if you pull from too high a...

Hi; The trick to doing this correctly is as follows. One, do not remove all the seals and pieces and parts as the instructions tell you to as you take things apart. This only serves to make it harder to get the new parts on correcly when you put the airpack back together. Two, Always...

Mine has 1/2" as well Kenny...I am sorry if I am confusing the issue. Normally there is a cover that is held on with the 1/4--7/16 headed bolts and then the nuts on the rod that are 1/2". You need a tappet wrench to adjust these. A regular wrench is too think and I had to grind my tappet wrench...

Hopping causes important and EXPENSIVE THINGS TO BREAK!!!!!!

In your picture there is a shaft coming out of the FDC with two thin nuts that are locked together. This is almost exactly in the center of the photo. To make it more clear, there are two 7/16" headed bolts on either side. I added an arrow and a circle to your picture to help you. You are...

GER84...The Redball Gilbert show is in a couple of weeks. That is pretty close to you and I would think you can find some used and new tires there prety easily. You can also check the classifieds on this site for good take-offs. I saw several ads in there with east coast vendors and members...

From what you are saying, it sounds like the airpack has an internal leak. I can guess that it is in the compensator bore. That is where the pressure applied actuates the air assist. If the inner seal fails it allows the brake fluid pressure thatthe air piston creates feed back into the...

I have rebuilt many airpacks and I have found on most that the bolts in the side that hold the airvalve piston cover in place are often loose; Sometimes less than finger tight. Since I know that some have not been tampered with that indicates to me that these bolts can loosen up. Perhaps it is...

I have seen where the bolts that hold the air valve cover on the side of the airpack have loosened up. I would take a look and see if that is the case. If they loosen up, that is where the air is held in check until you release the brakes. The hard pedal results form when the only pressure...

You can get all the manuals at www.jatonkam35s.com in the M35 download se tion RL

One other thing to remember is that there are two different length ferrules. You want the shorter of the two. If you try to use the longer one you cannot get the nut to start. RL

The airpack should be well lubed if it is new. I would squirt a good amount of airtool oil up inside the air line that supplies air to the air pack. That way the oil will pass through all the parts in the air pack. I have heard of adding oil to the piston area of the air pack. I believe...

I would suggest removing the cover and then reviewing the TM for the deuce and also you can get the TM for the injector pump with the exploded drawings of the internals. www.Jatonkam35s.com in the M35 Deuce TM section. The IP Manual is about 3/4 of the way down the page. If you read, and...

I can change my fuel setting without removing anything. It takes about 5 minutes. I sit on the fender legs over the front. With a 3/8 rachet 7/16" socket and 18" of extensions, remove the two 1/4" bolts that hold the cover on and set them aside. This allows you to turn the rachet without any...

If you do not bleed the brakes do they eventually pump up to a firm pedal, or does the pedal stay soft? The reason I ask is that if it is getting a soft pedal and it does not pump up firm, then air is getting into the system. Otherwise you could pump the pedal a few times and get your firm...

Agreed Gimpy, to a point.... My approach is to establish the main fuel setting based on performance at max RPM and Pyrometer readings and then trim the droop screw to a point where the truck will accelerate in the midrange but smokes the least. The truck will falter if you set the droop too...

I would search the site for turning the fuel up and you will get several threads and some with pictures and diagrams. You have two nuts locked against each other on a threaded shaft that connects inside to the pressure regulator for the IP. Unlock the two nuts WITHOUT TURNING THE THREADED...

The non-turbo trucks were known to smoke like the devil as Gimpy mentioned. I really doubt timing is an issue to be honest. When I bypassed my FDC I ended up turning the fuel down considerably and probably more than would normally be needed. This was likely due to my truck being overfueled...

It is possible that the shut off will stick in the off position and you will not be able to start the truck after a while. It is generally recommended to not leave the shutoff out when the vehcile is not in use, Just my two cents. RL