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Surface rust had developed on my inner fenders and had been bothering me for a while, so I did something about it. I did I find some rot, buts its not there anymore. Also removed and cleaned the coolant overflow bottle.

Both are roller jobs, the Blazer is Behr Premium Plus Ultra, the '10 is Behr Marquee. Where needed rust was converted with phosphoric acid, and primed with Rustoleum's rusty metal primer. Prep was done as best I could (more bellow). The '10 I thinned the paint by 30-40% with water, 4 or 5 coats...

Ran out of duct tape? :-D

Here's mine. Stock suspension, 33x10.5x15, 15x8 Summit specials. Have had no rubbing, I have not gone full stuff and turned, but I don't see it being much if any.

My pleasure, the search function is enabled in the TM's, that saves a bunch of time, it's good stuff. You may find the hoses were disconnected because of a leaking heater core, for some great info check out this thread on heater core replacement. That thread and many more very good ones are...

A good place to look is in the Technical Manuals found here for free among other places on the web. Here is screen shot from the TM-20, the next page gives detailed instructions on removing and installing if you're interested in those as well. Good luck.

Greetings from Maryland, USA. Welcome aboard, congrats on keeping up with your rig! What have you done to her to keep it on the road? and we all love pictures, so: nopics.

Welcome aboard from MD.

Another option is having your box rebuilt by Matt Hodges at West Texas Offroad. Not a Saginaw, but the rebuilt box I got is working well, quick turn around, great customer service, etc. No relation to them, just felt fairly treated. Look at order form for more prices, but $180 for rebuild...

Good call! I'd like to suggest not trying to use flux core wire for sheet metal. IMHO, it brings the suck. 0.023 wire with shielding gas, is much more user friendly. YMMV Good luck.

My opinion on your questions. Good place to learn about driveshaft angles s at the following site. http://www.4xshaft.com/driveline101.asp I took the liberty of quoting the article bellow, because it also is a good response to: "So what do you do? ,Who do you believe?, Larger joints...

Greetings Holgi, and welcome from Maryland, USA. Thanks for sharing the story and the great pictures, look forward to seeing more of it. Joshua

Well done. glaser06, I have a pair for the front NATIONAL 470682. Same deal as above, just PM an address if wanted.

Yes it does, https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?77618-TM-s-for-Trailers and the NSN for the retractable support is 2590014145547.

From the TM: SCREW,TAPPING #10 X 1/2 INCH. Head type: Cross recess type 1

Already answered, but here is a good thread: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?50551-CUCV-Switches-Diodes-Relays

Loaded a canoe, 2 kayaks, 5 bikes, misc. gear and went camping. To protect the sides of the trailer and stop the boats from gauging into the corners of the tarp mounting brackets, I used 4" ADS corrugated drainage hose. I removed about an inch along the entire length and then notched as needed.

Replaced the transmission mounts, used Energy Suspension #3.1108G.

There is 10 amp fuse for the gen 2 light in the fuse block and also a relay for gen 2 next to the starter relay.

A few more... To the OP, thank you for providing this and plenty more information on your website. http://radionerds.com/index.php/Main_Page