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I'd take some parts cleaner spray and see if you can clean things up a bit. It may make things a lot easier to figure out.
A bad connection over time can generate enough heat to do some real damage even though the amount of potential energy is low. I had a generator that melted one of the...
The shutdown signal comes from a switch that is separate from the sending unit that powers the gauge.
Have you done the easy thing and check the wire to make sure its not broken or knocked off from changing the filter?
I have had the wire break in the crimp. The wire looked OK but wasn't...
Here in central NC we were VERY LUCKY and got minimal damage. To the west of us its a war zone.
I've been reaching out to my contacts organizing volunteers and we are being told that we have about 1 more week before they let civilian volunteers in. Right now its only Professional first...
On the plus side, that is pretty easily repaired. Glad you didn't find the problem inside the generator head.
That is a possible sign of loose connections. I'd take the time to go through and make sure EVERY terminal in the power path is nice and tight.
My money is on one bad battery. Might show good on voltage but it may not be making current.
Stick a volt meter on each one then hit preheat. See if they hold voltage with the heaters going. If one of the batteries has a problem it will fall flat under load.
We did loose power for around 3hrs this morning. The skies have cleared somewhat and the sunshine is peaking through here and there. We got a lot of rain but thankfully here the damage is minor. There were tornadoes reported within a few miles of here. I've not gotten any reports of the damage...
I’m in central NC and expect we will loose power as the winds pick up. The ground is saturated and the trees will struggle to stand against even modest winds.
MEPs are fueled and tested.
I had an issue on the most recent auction purchase with the oil pressure being erratic and lower than typical once the oil was up to full temp. Additionally when you shut the unit down the OP would go negative. That suggested that the OP sending unit was bad.
Kurt pointed me towards a Autex...
These things are tough but can be broken running them over nameplate for long periods. Keeping the load reasonable will let it give you a nice and long service life.
FYI - The load gauge is calibrated assuming a 0.8 power factor. If you are applying a resistive load you need to take that into account. You were way above 100% at 13kw.
Noticed something interesting today. After running the unit with the fluctuating oil pressure, when I shut it down, the oil pressure was -4 PSI. Hm.. maybe I’m dealing with a bad sensor.
I just picked one up that seems to be doing something similar in regards to oil pressure. Its a 2012 model with around 35 hours on it according to both the on screen and mechanical meters. All of the storage compartments are still sealed so this is one was never issued out before it was...
After a good bit of research the easiest thing for me was to buy one of the construction distro boxes. It has breakers and GFCI protection. I picked up an amazon return for cheap. The only problem was one of the spring legs was slightly bent. A 5 minute fix to make it just like new and its now...
I've also given up on the "factory" line. It lasts at best a few years then starts leaking. I'm using the 1/8" Gates fuel line on the return and 1/4" Gates fuel line on the supply.
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