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Good point: in a vehicle everything twists and flexes, especially the springs. So, the pinion angle varies constantly, load-depending between driving and coasting. Enough at least to ensure adequate lubrication when running a CV driveshaft. Correct driveline geometry is most important in a...

.... meaning it's about correct - if we can assume that the engine/transmission/TC is tilted more or less 2-3 degrees. Put them aside; you don't need any shims. As I wrote in post #2: you want your driveshaft to be lengthened 1.5 - 2 inches, that's all. That's what we do when the driveshaft...

Sorry for the very late reply: all of them had High- and Low Fwd, plus Reverse. Hope you got it solved by now.

Not broken; they came that way........ That's a new one, to me at least..... Much better than stock, IMHO...!

Your last two pics should be the rear DS, not the front...(?) Anyway, it needs to be 2" longer at least and that can't be solved by just adding shims. Also, the difference between pinion angle and TC output should remain within 1-2deg - unless you installed a DS with a CV-joint.

The wheels pictured are 20x10" MRAP, 10 on 335mm center, 20-bolt, heavy duty steel construction and weighing about 170lbs. They would work well with adapters. But those sand tires are way too big, measuring almost 49" O.D. Your distance between rear axles is only 48", so...

Answer: Most probably not. (Because of weight and size it doesn't make much sense at all !)

This topic has been covered here, before: All W/Winch trucks have their HL in the upper position. Otherwise the (raised & extended) bumper would project a shadow on the ground, not far ahead. Early Non-winch trucks had them low. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/headlight-placement.15117/

See post #8 in this thread....

I'm assuming you are referring to these two.... (?) https://www.parttarget.com/2530-01-349-2058_2530013492058_B3040.html https://www.parttarget.com/2530-01-370-5462_2530013705462_12414420.html/-AE122BFD-ABB0-4E7C-B861-18920025CEBF The latter is wider, but not that much... See my post, here....

Ø 0.75" - ¼ = Ø 9/16" If so, that would reduce the max clamp load to almost half of the original (!?) Can you elaborate, please?

If it was mine I would simply modify those holes to fit our std lug nuts...

I fully agree on that... But my point was about safety. In your case - with bolt-together wheels - you can take advantage of it and easily add a beadlock for just $25 and greatly improve safety. Or not......

Yes and no..... WITHOUT a beadlock - in the event of a front tire blowout at 70mph, the tire beads will come off the wheel shoulders and the remaining rubber loosely wrap and twist around the wheel until it gets stuck in between wheel and steering components, eventually causing a complete...

Sorry to tell you... but yes, that is exactly the cause...! Time to replace parts - or adjust properly, at least. Those pads you see on the inside of the spring pockets are hardened kind of "inserts", plug welded to the casting to protect those from premature wear. Yours still look OK to me...

Why tubes....?? If you are referring to these 20x10" (10bolt, 2pc wheels) - that's a tubeless design.

1,8,7,2,6,5,4,3 is correct. Same goes for the non-turbo version, as well as the GM 6.2L

Stock Deuce axles have a 6.72:1 gear ratio. I'm almost sure that's NOT what you want.... Not even the faster, aftermarket 4.90:1 gears from Overson Engineering.

I'd say most often the cause of "wobble" is the wheel, not the tire.... I have worked on- and modified dozens of FMTV (steel) wheels . Problem is, from factory their (poor) design allows both halves to shift against each other while bolting them together. Mounting that assembly on a hub and...

You said "brand new tires with balancing beads". But do we know for sure that you are running with just beadlocks - and all dry and clean inside? Because normally, tires with runflat inserts also have (should have) that special grease - which obviously would cause exactly what you stated above...(?)