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looking at your Fbook... looks like you have 6x6 rear axle. or is that a high pinion newer single LMTV axle?? .. if 6x6 is it staying 6x6 with your mods... or ??

helps to know what truck you have. Do you have A1 with coil front shocks or older A1 and A0's with no coil shocks.

with that combo of switches you have an LBCD. Not that it matters which when it comes to just clean the terminals. Look for any hints of a burned up solenoid in the area of the switches by the battery box while cleaning all those terminals. Somewhere in here is an image of wiring when of...

sounds plausible. while you check the other voltages..... guess its back to cleaning all your grounds and wires between battery bank and the solenoids etc. beside them (disconnect switch area) and the LBCD connections. PS- "cold" intensifies connection issues.

let us know the others. thanks

If you have the 260amp alt.... no "need" to go go 2 batts. Not too many A1 C7's in civilian hands. You got a sweeet rig once you get her figured out. on the regulator pretty sure your era truck would have the two LED's on the alternator voltage regulator. Red and Green I believe they are...

IMHO if your leaning toward swapping to a commercial 200amp alternater..... get a bussman....... but.... take some time if you got it and watch ebay. They pop up at real good prices few times a year.... if your diligent you can save some funds.

When your running it we need to know what the colors/ patterns of LED lights on voltage regulator attached too the alternator are flashing. Also what does the Dash volt meter say exactly.

A1 came with both 3126 and C7's. Yours being a 2006 A1 w/C7 changes EVERYTHING about charging compared to 3116. except DONT CHARGE LOOOW BATTs VIA ALTERNATOR. Do with a wall charger as mentioned in earlier post.. (one bat att a time) Crud.. hard as hell to search the internet for two...

you got lotttttt of reading ahead of ya lol. DON"T ALTERNATOR CHARGE if you got any of them low stop the truck. Charge one battery at a time with 12v charger. Take each one to be tested individually. if you got two good batteries out of the four..... remove two of the four and run off two...

now to figure out what is causing it???

miss post... and it wont let me delete. Mod. please remove this post.

nice look. Maybe consider spray or brush it with fire retardent.? Unlike regular construction wood; think it has no fire-retardant-ish stuff done to it..... read up on it?

are you using re-claimed pallet planks?

yes air activated; but that is controlled by an electric air solenoid.... so maybe call it a hybrid electric/air controlled? Defaults to on if air is not supplied.

For everyone's clarity... true for A1 and A0???. (as long as A0- does not have have PTO in Allison TCU thus can't link pacbrake to it?)

Glad to see the Pin conversation.... but for different reason that hit on in here. When folk switch their pull valves on their A0 to the dual unit like in the A1's they invariably cut out a square from the A0's face plate and plop the dual valve setup behind that. Never understood why folk did...

Yeah their stuff is in here. Apparently also there is a bit of a ..... bash up with something about their veteran -ish thing being what they say its.. and what it really is.... maybe its all resolved now.

how much ground clearance you loose when the unit is installed? might be interested

Below From Yellow Parts Spread sheet. Myself tend to like plastic cause they are sacrificial wear part that will wear out themselves instead of part of your latch or your rod (or both) Was able to use some from a couple sets of Dorman multi type plastic door rod clip kit from auto part...